Help. I am trying to get to the defrost heater and/or bimetal that is located under the floor of the top mount freezer (freezer over fridge). I know the part I am trying to get to, but don’t want to break the floor trying to get it out. None of the local repairmen here know how to do this on a refrigerator this old (31+ years). I could use some instructions. I should say that a couple of months ago the freezer started frosting on the bottom panel and I can’t keep the temp below 20. I can’t keep the fridge temp below about 45. I have manually unplugged and let the freezer completely defrost and it works great for about 10 days and then the temps start to change from the recommended 40 in the frig and 0 in the freezer. I have replaced the defrost timer as it seemed to be stuck as well as the thermostat. I have been told by a repairmen that the next step is to replace the defrost heater and/or bimetal part.
I have removed the 4 screws from the freezer floor and the two plugs. I can lift it partway from the back, but how do I get it out completely?
Here is a parts breakdown drawing for your refrigerator. It looks like the bottom plate (Part #3 in the drawing) is hooked in the front. It looks like the bottom will lift up in the back (after all obstructions are removed) and pulled up and back to clear a lip.
Extreme caution should be used. These old plastic parts can crack, as they become brittle with age. Also, the insulation will come out in pieces if you don’t let it completely defrost before you start.
[COLOR=“Red”]The fins on the evaporator are razor-sharp[/COLOR]; so gloves are necessary safety equipment. The heater will be laid around the perimeter of the evaporator. Before removing it, unplug the wires connecting it and test it for continuity. If it tests closed (More than zero ohms) no need to replace it. The thermostat (also called the defrost terminator) will be open at room temperature, and closed somewhere below 20*. If the thermostat is bulged, replace it.
Before you start, listen for the evaporator fan. When the compressor is running, BOTH the evaporator fan and the condenser fan should also be running.Interior parts replacement parts for AMANA TC18D REF - TOP MOUNT | AppliancePartsPros.com
What is the equepment you test with called and where do I get it?[quote=magician59;516355]Here is a parts breakdown drawing for your refrigerator. It looks like the bottom plate (Part #3 in the drawing) is hooked in the front. It looks like the bottom will lift up in the back (after all obstructions are removed) and pulled up and back to clear a lip.
Extreme caution should be used. These old plastic parts can crack, as they become brittle with age. Also, the insulation will come out in pieces if you don’t let it completely defrost before you start.
[COLOR=red]The fins on the evaporator are razor-sharp[/COLOR]; so gloves are necessary safety equipment. The heater will be laid around the perimeter of the evaporator. Before removing it, unplug the wires connecting it and test it for continuity. If it tests closed (More than zero ohms) no need to replace it. The thermostat (also called the defrost terminator) will be open at room temperature, and closed somewhere below 20*. If the thermostat is bulged, replace it.
Before you start, listen for the evaporator fan. When the compressor is running, BOTH the evaporator fan and the condenser fan should also be running.Interior parts replacement parts for AMANA TC18D REF - TOP MOUNT | AppliancePartsPros.com[/quote]
All you need is a good quality multi-meter. You don’t need a fancy one; an inexpensive meter from any electrical/electronics department or store will do. The test is a continuity test. It is used to tell whether a component or wire has a relatively clear path for electricity to flow through it. I believe there is a post (a “stickie”) on this forum explaining how to do it.
If you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself, you probably have a friend or neighbor who will help you with it.