Our refrigerator runs and you can hear the fans but is not cold. I saw a post but was not sure if my compressor ok? Ohm readings:
Top 2 leads: 59.4ohm
Top right and bottom: 5.9ohm
Top left and bottom 3.7ohm.
Does this tell me that my compressor is ok? I noticed the starter white relay rattles and is burnt inside. The black overload does not rattle and seems fine. I measured the resistance but did not get any, it seems open. How do you check overload? Should I get a replacement overload also instead of just the starter relay?
Here is a tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202255381.pdf
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I saw a post but was not sure if my compressor ok? Ohm readings:
Top 2 leads: 59.4ohm
Top right and bottom: 5.9ohm
Top left and bottom 3.7ohm.
Does this tell me that my compressor is ok?[/COLOR]
Something is weird here as the two windings should add up so top two connector reading should be 9.5 ohms.
Also check the resistance to the case re:ground, all pins should be infinite ohms.
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I noticed the starter white relay rattles and is burnt inside.[/COLOR]
Definitely sounds like it is toast
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I measured the resistance but did not get any, it seems open. How do you check overload?[/COLOR]
The way you checked it is correct and it also looks like it is toast as it should be closed (0 ohms)
Should I get a replacement overload also instead of just the starter relay?
Yes
I used a multimeter that had a capacitance measurement and it had no reading so it’s dead. Is this correct? I wanted to double check it seems like it from the quick read of the link above.
Could I manually jumper the PTC start relay and remove it once the compressor starts? Would I need this run capacitor once the motor is running? In the prints it said optional for this run capacitor. Would I damage the motor if the cap. is/was bad?
[COLOR=Blue]I used a multimeter that had a capacitance measurement and it had no reading so it’s dead. Is this correct?[/COLOR]
Without knowing the meter I cannot say. If the meter readout was in micro-farads and it’s dynamic range was large nough to read this capacitor then I would say it is toast
[COLOR=Blue]Could I manually jumper the PTC start relay and remove it once the compressor starts?[/COLOR]
Yes but be sure to disconnect the start winding onec the compressor starts up
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Would I need this run capacitor once the motor is running?[/COLOR]
Just went through this with another person, their compressor runs /starts fine without it so they left it off. As far as I know the capacitor just gives the compressor a little boost to get it started.
[COLOR=Blue]Would I damage the motor if the cap. is/was bad?[/COLOR]
Leave it off and give it a try. Not sure if it would damage the motor but it would not do your PTC and the wiring any good depending on how it failed.
They can short, leak or blow open.
[quote=denman;143051][COLOR=Blue]I used a multimeter that had a capacitance measurement and it had no reading so it’s dead. Is this correct?[/COLOR]
Without knowing the meter I cannot say. If the meter readout was in micro-farads and it’s dynamic range was large nough to read this capacitor then I would say it is toast The meter has an auto range and it’s digital. It can read to the micro-farads. I guess it’s blown open. I ordered a used cap, hopefully it will get ship and arrival soon. Also got a new start relay will wait for all parts to come in to start the compressor up.
[COLOR=Blue]Could I manually jumper the PTC start relay and remove it once the compressor starts?[/COLOR]
Yes but be sure to disconnect the start winding onec the compressor starts up
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Would I need this run capacitor once the motor is running?[/COLOR]
Just went through this with another person, their compressor runs /starts fine without it so they left it off. As far as I know the capacitor just gives the compressor a little boost to get it started.
From the schematic it says it’s a run cap when PTC is in the start state it’s shorted so it would bypass the cap.
