Brand: Maytag Model Number: MVWB835DW4 Main Symptom: Sensing to wash loop and never starts What happens & when: Starting a new load of laundry starts with the lid lock, next sensing where the bottom of the drum rotates slowly, then the wash cycle starts and nothing happens. After a minute or 2, the wash cycle returns to the sensing cycle and the loop repeats endlessly. Prior to this failure, a loud grinding noise could be heard during the spin cycle. Can you offer any advice to troubleshoot the problem in order to narrow down the parts needed to repair it?
Error Code (if any): F7 E5
Parts or tests already tried: None (washing machine failure started today; 8/14/2026)
Photos / video link: None
F7 E5
Shifter assembly fault.
The main electronic control board cannot determine the position of the drive system shifter. Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections on the main electronic control board and the shifter assembly. If the wiring connections are okay, then the shifter assembly will usually need to be replaced| Needed - Shifter assembly.
Hi Jeff, thanks for the suggestions. Would the shifter assembly be the “Washer Transmission for MVWB835DW4”?
I did move the washer and found what appeared to be a bunch of dark greasy material splattered in a circular patter on the floor (travertine tile) and I see it all around the bottom of the dryer. Attached is a pic of the floor.
Check for a leak down the middle of the washer…tub seal may have been leaking water into the tranny/gearbox causing it to throw some oil out…this would be a worse issue.
Yes. F7 E5 is the key clue here. On the Maytag MVWB835DW4, F7E5 means the control cannot get the shifter/clutch mechanism to engage or disengage correctly between wash and spin. Combined with the grinding during spin before the failure, I would concentrate on the drive system rather than the lid lock, water valves, or control board initially.
What I would check first
1. Unplug the washer and check the basket/washplate mechanically. With the tub empty, rotate the basket by hand. It should rotate without severe grinding, binding, or rough bearing noise. Also try moving the washplate. If the basket is extremely difficult to turn or you hear/feel grinding, there’s a good possibility the gearcase/bearing assembly has failed.
2. Tip the washer back and inspect underneath. Disconnect power first and drain any water before tilting it. Remove the motor cover and closely inspect the rotor, clutch and slider area. The service manual specifically directs F7E5 troubleshooting toward the shifter connections and the slider, checking whether the slider moves freely.
That slider is a known service part for this exact model.
3. Inspect the clutch/shifter assembly (Whirlpool W10754448 Washer Clutch | Genuine OEM Part ). Check its connector and wiring first. Look for broken wires, backed-out terminals, corrosion, overheating, or physical rubbing. The service procedure specifically says to check the electrical connections before condemning the component.
A particularly important observation
Look for oil/grease around the slider, clutch, rotor, or underside of the gearcase.
If you find oil/grease coming down the gearcase shaft, don’t just replace the slider. That strongly increases my suspicion of a failing gearcase (Whirlpool W11393685 Washer Transmission | Genuine OEM Part ). There is even a documented MVWB835DW4 F7E5 repair where the slider was sticking on the gearcase spline and grease was present; the repair ultimately involved the gearcase, slider and clutch.
Your earlier grinding during spin makes this check especially important.
Use diagnostics to separate clutch from gearcase
The service manual’s procedure is very useful here. Clear the stored codes, enter Service Test Mode, and separately command Heavy Agitation and Spin. Whirlpool/Maytag specifically says F7E3/F7E4/F7E5/F7E6/F7E7 point toward the motor/shifter system.
What happens during those two tests tells us a lot:
Diagnostic result
Most likely direction
Agitates normally, won’t spin
Slider/clutch engagement problem
Spins but won’t agitate
Slider/clutch engagement problem
Grinding while attempting either
Slider/gearcase/rotor mechanical damage
Motor hums then stops
Mechanical bind or motor/drive issue
Slider teeth visibly damaged
Replace slider W10734521
Slider binds on shaft
Gearcase becomes much more suspect
Oil/grease leaking from gearcase
Gearcase W11393685 likely
Slider moves freely but clutch won’t shift
Clutch W10754448 / wiring
Everything mechanical + wiring tests good
Main control becomes possible
The service manual actually says that with the motor/stator/shifter exposed, if the slider binds, doesn’t move freely, or shows rubbing, replace the drive. Only after the mechanical components, shifter and wiring pass does the troubleshooting tree lead toward the main control.
My suspicion based on your symptoms
I’d rank it approximately:
Slider/clutch problem → gearcase problem → wiring → control board.
But because you had loud grinding during spin before F7E5 appeared, I’d be more suspicious of actual mechanical damage than I would be from F7E5 alone. Parts listings for this exact model likewise identify the slider, gearcase and clutch as the primary components associated with spinning problems.
Don’t order the control board yet. The bottom inspection can potentially save you a lot of money.
If you can remove the motor cover and send me a clear photo of the rotor/clutch/slider area, I can point out exactly what to inspect and help determine whether you’re looking at a ~$30–50 slider repair, clutch repair, or the larger gearcase job.
Thank you for the input! I’ve started the disassembly work and am stuck with the washplate removal. Used an impact wrench to remove the 7/16" nut, but the picks I have are too small and the washplate won’t budge. More to follow . . .
Jeff, the washplate came out after a bit of WD40 was applied and got the transmission out. The piece of wood and mallet suggestion to remove the transmission (from the Appliance Parts Pro video) did not work. I had to hit the transmission a few times directly with the mallet to get the transmission out. Once out, I inspected the tub and found stripped/damaged teeth on the gear at the center of the tub (see attached pic). Replacing the tub + transmission = “buy a new washing machine”. Thank you so much for the help! Too bad Maytag washers are not as durable as they used to be. Cheers!
