Hello, My side by side is not cooling, I was advised earlier that my problem was prob. my compressor switch not the compressor (quick dance of relief) and thought I could measure resistance across the pins of the compressor (where the relay was before) to verify that the compressor was probably good. Now comes my problem, what should the reading be for the pins, I have a triangle, two pins on top and one on the bottom. Could you help me? TIA. Carole
Hello Carole.Compressor Check AP5641753
Lets see if I can walk you thru this,what we are going to test is your compressor since you have an ohms meter first lets put it on the ohms reading Ω OK unplug the unit. take that little cover off the side then take a small screwdriver and pry the overload and relay off the three pins sticking out of the side of the compressor.OK there are three pins they should be in a triangle the top one is your neutral then the two bottom ones are the start windings and the other is the run windings. take your red lead and put one of the bottom pins and the black lead on the other bottom pin so you are taking a reading from the start winding and the run winding.OK you with me remember the triangle OK you got a reading across the two bottom pins that shouldn’t have been over 12 ohms OK now go from the top pin which is the neutral to the start winding OK whatever your reading is across the two bottom pins lets say its 10 that’s perfect so from the top pin to either one of the bottom pins should be 5 and the other side from the top pin to the run winding should be 5 as well they have to be equal so if the reading is 10 like we said one side cant be 8 and the other side 2 do you see what I mean it should be really close if they are way off like 8 to 2 the windings in the compressor are bad you can also check the overload and relay put the ohm meter on buzz so that when you touch the leads together you can hear it buzz stick the leads into the two bottom holes you should hear it buzz if not its bad I hope this helps. Thank You and Good Luck !
My three pins are arranged differently, I have two pins on top and one on the bottom. I tested them as follows:
red probe on bottom pin, blk on top left pin: 3.2 Ohms
Red probe on bottom pin, blk on top Right pin: 6.4 Ohms
red and blk probe across top two pins: 9.3 OHMs
Do I assume that the top Left pin is the “run” pin, and that since they aren’t too far apart that the windings aren’t blown? TIA. Carole
Hmm, my ohm meter doesn’t buzz but when I put the probes together I get a “short” message which I assume is the same as buzz. My relay doesn’t give the “short” message so I’m hopeful. Am I reading this right?
Hello Carole. The readings that you got means your compressor is good. Now check each pin, to ground to see if there is an open circuit. Each pin should zero ohms. If it reads it is shorted to ground meaning the compressor is bad.
Tonight I tested the connections on the compressor of our 22-yr-old Montgomery Wards refrigerator.
The readings I got were:
Red on Bottom left pin, Black on top pin 8.3 ohms
Red on Bottom right pin, Black on top pin 3.5 ohms
Red on bottom left, black on bottom right 11.6 ohms
Are the readings between the start and run too far apart (the windings are blown) or is this within a safe degree of difference?
Trying to determine if there is any value in purchasing a new relay.
Also, if it is a bad relay, should I assume the overload should be replaced at the same time?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Stuart
For mumford, the measurements seem to indicate the start pin is bottom left, run pin bottom right. Resistance reading may identify the run and start pin (but not allways). They also confirm the windings are not blown open. Only real test is a functional one with power applied to the start device.
If the old start device resistance across the bottom two pins measures between 5 and 10 ohms, it’s ok. A new start device may not start your compressor.
For Carole, note the wiring to the old start device, then remove and shake it, if it rattles it’s bad. If you have an ohm meter, measure across the two bottom compressor pins in the old start device, should measure between 5 and 10 ohms.If bad, order a new one AP3885081
richappy,
Measurements on the relay alone are fluctuating between 12.5 and 13.2.
Are these normal readings, or would they signify a bad part?
Please advise.
Thanks,
Stuart
If a coil type relay, turn it upside down, two terminals should be zero ohms.
Don’t believe its a coil relay. This is the replacement part:
WHIRLPOOL 2154436 Relay (production Only), AP2966871 | AppliancePartsPros.com
I get thew same reading no matter how its turned.
Seems like the start waifer inside the black ptc device is bad. I would order a new one, just be carefull to wire it up exactly the same as the old one.
The resistance readings with a 9 volt battery in the meter do not verify the windings are not burnt, if they are, application of 115 volts will display high current as the voltage will ark across the windings.
When I test my pins, I get 1.3 ohms across the bottom and then .7 top to bottom and .6 top to bottom. They equal out, but are these readings ok, they seem low… Or am I mis-interpreting them (is 1.3 really 13?)
I do not have a digital tester
Best to use a digital meter, you can get a cheap one at Walmart.
Only way to verify compressor winding status is with a good start device and an amprobe.
You would need a wheat stone bridge and factory data to verify windings are good.