This oven is fairly new (about 5 years, came with the house). Yesterday when my wife was broiling some french fries to crisp them up, the breaker in the basement in line with the range, as well as the main house breaker tripped, and I heard a very loud pop. I am unsure if the pop was the oven or the breaker (probably the breaker).
Now the oven will not heat up for anything (bake, broil, convection, self-clean). When I turn it on bake it sits there showing 100 degrees, and I hear clicking sounds of what sounds like the oven trying to turn on the element. The computer itself doesn’t show any errors, and seems to be functioning properly at least from the user interface. I don’t have a multimeter (planning to grab a new one tomorrow), but I did open the back up and remove the thermal fuse/breaker. I connected the two wires that were connected into it, and plugged the oven in. Same result, so I’m assuming it’s not that?
Any help or guidence would be appreciated. My wife is looking at new ovens because getting someone to repair it wouldn’t be worth the cost, but throwing out an almost perfectly working range seems like a complete waste, and it’s just not good for the environment.
Edit: It looks like this forum doesn’t link linking of external images? To view the images you’ll need to replace the *s with “image shack.us” without the space.
So I’ve done a lot of troubleshooting, and the results are interesting. Before ordering a new control board I decided to open everything up and test all of the wires and components first to ensure that the issue is really the controller. The controller has no other issues, so to me that was weird.
I tested every connection to the oven components with a multimeter:
When testing the broiler connection, I wouldn’t get a reading, but when I tested the convection element, I would get a reading. The broiler and convection elements are split from the same line, so this was a bit strange. I then tested to see if the broiler wire and the convection wire were properly connected together (they should be due to the line split), and they weren’t. I took a closer look.
Can you see it? Here is a closer look:
The wire is completely burnt through, without connection. The adjacent wires are intact, but I do see some burn marks indicating that there was probably a small fire. This is a very scary finding.
At this point I’m unsure what to do next. Can I even replace this wire, and if so, with what? I’m worried that if I replace this wire I’ll get the same thing happening, and next time it might burn down my house. Is there someone I can call even though this is off warranty due to the seriousness of the issue?
It looks like this wire failed from the inside out.
There may have been a problem with this wire from day one and over time it has degraded till it failed.
I would cut the wire at the failure point and then cut it back till you get to nice clean copper.
Then I would use a connector to make the splice.
Use the set screw type (See below) with the hard plastic/ceramic body as it will give a better connection and is more heat resistant.
Be sure to get the correct size.
Tape the connection to the other wires to keep it away from the oven (heat) as much as possible.
I’ll pickup the connector tonight and give it a try. I’ll use a nice amount of electrical tape to keep things secured.
Since it was only the wire that went to the broil element, would that cause the bake/convection elements to not get power either? I traced them back from the controller board and the connections work. Does it detect a fault and not provide power? There were no faults shown on the console when trying to bake, just a 100 degree status.
No juice to any either element is probably a second problem.
With luck it blew the thermal limiter (Item 18 in Section 1).
Looking at it on this site, it looks like it has a red reset button on the back.
This can be checked with the breaker off or the unit unplugged.
Note: It is important to be sure power is turned off as many units still have power to one side of the element when just the element control is off.
If limiter is OK then unfortunately your control board is probably shot.
Note : I am assuming the stove top elements work OK re: the unit is getting 240 volts.
The first thing I checked with the thermal fuse, and it is passing current (closed). Both of the stove elements are working without issue. I tested the oven elements using the Ohm setting of the multimeter, and they are also passing current.
I powered the oven up and set it to 350 degree bake, and then measured the AC voltage using the prongs on the back of the element connectors. None was being passed.
I was about to order the replacement board based on the advice from other threads when i decided to dig further, discovering the break posted above.
So I’ve truncated and reconnected the wires using the part suggested above last night. The broiler now turns on as it is supposed to. Good news.
The bad news is, none of the other oven elements (bake/convection) turn on.
When I set the oven to bake, I test the leads on the back of the bake element for AC voltage, and nothing is being passed to the element. The same for the convection element when convection bake is enabled. When I turn on bake, the broiler is supplied voltage (and heats up) for about 3 seconds every 30-45 seconds. I’m assuming this is to help pre-heat the oven. One of the convection element connectors (the left one) appears to be burnt quite a bit, and I found out from my wife that she was actually using the convection bake (not broil) at the time of the failure.
I can say that it would probably be best to replace the convection bake element, but this obviously won’t solve the issue since it is not being supplied power. Does this mean I’ll need to replace the control board as well? Do you think this would solve the problem, or are there other things that could have gone wrong here that I should look for. Basically, I’ve invested time and $2 into this, and I’d really hate to spend over $200 to find out I’m no better off. Is it worth fixing, or is this potentially a lost cause?
I’d appreciate some advise on how I should proceed at this point. Thanks!
On the convection element.
Remove both wires from it and check it for resistance.
Not sure what it should be, probably around 20 ohms.
Then check form each side to the stove frame, both should be infinite ohms (open).
If it checks out OK then I would say the convection element is OK and you will just have to clean the connector on element and clean or replace the wire’s connector.
Since you have doe a lot of troubleshooting and the wiring etc. looks good you should be a be to return the board to ApplancePartsPros if it does not fix your problem.
See their return policy.
I’d really like to order the parts from AppliancePartsPros for that very reason, but it looks like they do not accept orders from Canada, which is unfortunate because there is no reason I can see why they wouldn’t want to ship items cross border (some stores do). Finding the parts locally looks like I can’t return them after, with a higher cost for the parts.
I’ll disconnect the elements (might as well test Bake too) and see if they look okay. Then I’ll roll a set of dice and let them decide if I purchase the part :V
I’ve fixed my problem. Since this thread appears on the top of the list on Google when searching for my model, I want to ensure people know how to resolve it.
Firstly, the short that burned the wire also burned some connections and relays on the computer board. So if I ordered a new board that would have fixed it.
Being a giant nerd, instead of ordering a board I decided to take direction from another forum and try and fix the clock myself.
Here is the thread: Thread here
Here is my post demonstrating how to fix this problem if you’re decent at elecronics: Post here