I have bypassed the Thermostat (temperature regulator - formal part name) and the Regular cycle completes.
I have cleaned the contacts/ and tested the Selector switch assembly and have found continuity across 1-2 & 3-4.
The heating element still has resistance reading of 11 ohms.
I have already replaced the timer, (2) High limit Thermostats as well as the Thermostat - I have heated the Thermostat and it closes although I don’t know the actual temperature this occurs.
Short of replacing the Heating element, which I believe is good (11 ohms) - I am at a loss as to what to try to get the Heating element to heat?
The dishwasher runs through all cycles with the thermostat shorted - the water temperature is no hotter than the hot water entering - Does anyone have any ideas or options to get the water to get hotter?
Remove the wires from the heating element and check for continuity between each terminal and ground.
If there is nothing wrong then make an extension cord with the two crocodile clips, connect them to the heater and check if it’ll heat up with the power coming straight to it. Be careful not to electrocute yourself.
Gene, I didn’t get continuity between the individual element contacts and ground - but when I wired it directly the element heated up immediately???
The element is obviously fine - should I now attempt to measure the temperature the thermostat closes at to see it it is the thermostat which is faulty and therefore doesn’t close at the right time to close the circuit and allow current to flow to the heating element???
I have bypassed the Thermostat (temperature regulator - formal part name) and the Regular cycle completes.