My heating coil stays on after I open the door to the dryer. In order to get it to shut off I have to move the timer all the way to the off portion or unplug it. I just replaced the thermal fuse on this dryer, and noticed the coils glow, and heat right after when I was testing the dryer. I’m now guessing this is why the fuse blew. Any suggestions?
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 11069422801 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal fuse blows.
Also on the motor there is a centrifugal switch that closes when the motor gets close to operating speed. This prevents the heater coming on before there is air flow. A grounded element can bypass this switch so you get heat when the motor is off.
Finally got around to checking the coil. Everything is reading infinite ohms.
Something very strange here.
Infinite ohms is an open so you cannot get any heat.
Sorry I just realized using an analog ohmmeter you have to zero the device. At the wire connection point on the coil I’m receiving 1ohm, and the coil itself is giving me zero everywhere I test.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]Sorry I just realized using an analog ohmmeter you have to zero the device. At the wire connection point on the coil I’m receiving 1ohm, and the coil itself is giving me zero everywhere I test.[/COLOR]
I am not sure where you are measuring.
Is the coil is disconnected and are you measuring across it’s connectors?
If the one ohm is correct your breaker should have blown at 240 volts it would pull 240 amps. Even if this is the resistance to the case/frame it should blow the breaker as it would pull 120 amps.
Also by zero do you mean 0 ohms or 0 conductivity which would be infinite ohms.
Following are a few tips on meter use.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
- When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.