Apparently the ignition module for my Hardwick stove top has quit working. The module is a Harper-Wyman Kool Lite Model 6520. Any suggestions on a replacement since I have been unable to find one? Thanks.
If this is a spark module with the two input and the two output terminals, you can use the spark module made by Frigidaire (best price!) with the part number AP2149264.
Gene.
Thanks for the help Gene. Ordered it this morning. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Looks like a savings of about $40.00 over the appliance store who was trying to help me.
Gene, the ignition module came in today and went in will little problem, even though wife was praying over me. It works great. Thanks for the help.
I have the SAME ignighter on a Roper gas range. Found a replacement here:
Part Details - GE Module, spark, part number: WB20X107
They are proud of it, but it’s exactly the same size and parameters as the one you have as well as mine.
Good luck!
[QUOTE=Gene;18577]If this is a spark module with the two input and the two output terminals, you can use the spark module made by Frigidaire (best price!) with the part number AP2149264.
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Gene: Can I use a [Tappan? Frigidaire?] # (FR) 5303912606 Ignitor Module as well as the Frigidaire part you mention? I ordered it from (my best guess based on very limited info by anyone online or by phone) …before I saw your old POST about the “exact” replacement for the 6520, the AP2149264.
["If this is a spark module with the two input and the two output terminals, you can use the spark module made by Frigidaire (best price!) with the part number AP2149264."]
Thanks for your help! Jim
Yes, you can. Frigidaire part number 5303912606 is APP part number AP2149264.
Gene.
Gene: I installed the spark module, worked fine for about 2 minutes.. . then began to work sporadically (intermittently, sometimes not for about 15 to 20 seconds, sometimes normal repetitive sparking, and usually very inconsistent sparking (dangerous when it pauses too long to light, of course!). I don’t know if it was you.. . but some tech said the modules that are replaced are 90% good! YIKES, I think I’ve been dupped TOO! By my own mis-diagnosis evidently!
What is likely to be causing this inconsistent functioning? I have tightened ground screws securely. Doesn’t seem like it could be anything but the spark gaps themselves.. . Yet, that seems unlikely too! [I’ve hooked the module up directly to power.. . to bypass the knob spark switches.. . THE SPARK MODULE STILL WORKED INCONSISTENTLY!] The spark gaps function fine at times, sparking about 2 to 4 times per second, then they spark every 10 or so seconds, sometimes with 15 to 30 second pauses! Help?
Please advise.. . 
Thanks, Jim 
P.S. Is there a gap cleaning procedure.. . or some way to “rebuild” or service the spark gap units?
Jim,
What is the complete model number of the stove?
Make sure you connected the live wire to the “L” terminal and the neutral to the “N” terminal on the spark module.
Gene.
Gene: Model # GSU-33-E-1 Chambers [Top Burners (4)]
The spark module was H-W 6520…the one you mentioned.
It sparks sometimes just fine…repeatedly. Other times, it has a very faint “sparking” sound, but does not spark. Tonight, I lit the stove with a starter lighter after attempting several times to use the manufactured spark mechanism [it just gave that faint sparking sound…without lighting (or sparking!)]. I tapped the spark tubes with the end of the (unlit) starter lighter (when the knob was turned on to LIGHT)…and the spark gaps started to spark properly. Could it be a bad connection of the spark assembly? The spark gaps don’t appear serviceable…esp as the unit is riveted so you can’t get under the stove proper where the wires run…and I can’t see how the gaps could be serviced..or even checked??
Thanks for your help! Jim:D
Jim,
The problem can be a bad igniter(s) or a bad wires to them. Unfortunately I’m not able to provide more accurate advice due to age of the range. There is no online information available.
Gene.
Gene: Is the ignitor (or another usable one) available to swap out? I’ll check the wires for continuity. Does the system use the base of the unit as a ground ..along with the hot (300+ volt) line.. to get the spark?
Thanks, Jim
P.S. I sprayed the contacts with electrical cleaner & lubricant, which seemed to make them worse.. . Was that bad? How do you clean or service them?
[QUOTE=jaimediego;95500]Gene: Is the ignitor (or another usable one) available to swap out? I’ll check the wires for continuity. Does the system use the base of the unit as a ground ..along with the hot (300+ volt) line.. to get the spark?
Thanks, Jim
P.S. I sprayed the contacts with electrical cleaner & lubricant, which seemed to make them worse.. . Was that bad? How do you clean or service them?[/QUOTE]
I’m not able to get the part numbers for this range and I can not tell you if it’s possible to swap the igniters.
You have to check the wires insulation as well.
The proper ground is very important. The power outlet for the range must be grounded and the ground wire has to be attached to the range.
The best cleaning solution is a rubbing alcohol. Make sure it’s completely dried before connecting the power.
Gene.
Gene: Thanks again… I checked briefly at Home Depot here. They had two stove tops for $650 and $1200! This thing works, but lighting it is annoying for my wife who likes to cook alot. [I’m good at fixing things, so my ego is at stake too! Ha!]. How do I check the insulation? When it doesn’t work, it makes a faint sparking noise, like it’s sparking inside the module (either new or old module). Maybe I can try replacing the wire (What kind, type or quality is it?), but isn’t it part of the spark igniter part? [I could splice with shrink wrap probably..right?]This is aggravating, because I know it has to be something relatively simple.. . It has AC power, the spark wires have continuity, I tried adding a ground (but no improvement), and both igniter modules function the same.. . Yikes! This is too simple of a system to trash a well functioning stove top, cuz I can’t get the silly thing to spark. [It worked fine for 15 years until about a month ago, when this intermittent functioning began!] I’ll try the alcohol too of course.. . .
Thanks again for all your help! Jim
The recommendation to use an AP2149264 as a replacement for the HW 6520 has some issues. The 6520 has two outputs designed to feed two spark units. The AP2149264 has two output pins but us designed to have one of them grounded and the other feed a single spark unit. If your range has two sets of two burners each with seperate spark units, the AP2149264 will not work. If you try to tie the two spark units in parallel, only the one with the lowest resistance to ground will spark and the other half will not work. The unit could be made to work if you used two of the AP2149264 parts to replace one 6520. You need to be the judge if that is cost effective. :mad: