When plugged in, igniters (tick) constantly. Any ideas???
Nunnan,
You most likely have a bad spark module,
You’ll need to slide the range out, unplug the cord and remove the control panel back cover, to access the module.
Joe, would a NEW igniter click regularly for any reason? I installed the AP2023163 (GE part WB20x107) and it clicks every 20-30 seconds when the stove is off. It clicks rapidly for ignition - good - but won’t shut up.
When I removed the old igniter, I tied off the old wires to make sure reassembly went correctly. As a test, I swapped the output leads - no change. I then tried swapping the 120v leads - still no change.
I don’t know the GE model - the paper label dissolved by grease. The original igniter is a Kool-something (don’t have it in front of me); I matched it via websites to the AP2023163, which appears to be identical. Can they appear the same but really be different?
- Erik
[quote=enottleson;566113]Joe, would a NEW igniter click regularly for any reason? I installed the AP2023163 (GE part WB20x107) and it clicks every 20-30 seconds when the stove is off. It clicks rapidly for ignition - good - but won’t shut up.
When I removed the old igniter, I tied off the old wires to make sure reassembly went correctly. As a test, I swapped the output leads - no change. I then tried swapping the 120v leads - still no change.
I don’t know the GE model - the paper label dissolved by grease. The original igniter is a Kool-something (don’t have it in front of me); I matched it via websites to the AP2023163, which appears to be identical. Can they appear the same but really be different?
- Erik[/quote]
Erik,
A couple of things,
The part number you refer to (AP2023163) is the spark module not the igniter.
Is the igniter, it is mounted to the bottom of the burner box, between the two burners under the cooktop.
No, there should be no “clicking” or spark from the igniter at all, when all the burner valve knobs are in the “OFF” position.
With a new spark module, there are a couple of checks to make :
Make sure the power cord has 3 prongs, and make sure the outlet is a polarized and grounded 120 VAC/60 Hz.
Check all the wires and insure none have been pinched or shorted to the chassis or frame comonents.
Check and clean the igniter assembly of all debris and corrosion.
Then you’ll need to check all the igniter switches on the top burner valves, are an “open” circuit in the “Off” position and a “closed” circuit when the Knob is in the “Lite” position.
Good Luck and Thanks,
Thank you for such a swift reply, Joe. Sorry, my shorthand error: we’re both talking about the spark module. I did not realize the igniter was a different part.
The old spark module clicked when it was supposed to, until it abruptly failed some months ago; it is a Harper-Wyman KOOL LITE model 6520. The voltage rating stamped on it is 120v-60Hz-4mA.
Regarding incoming power, there is a good 3-wire grounded connection from the breaker box. The stove power cord still has 3 prongs, and plugs directly into the grounded outlet. Since the old sparker worked until it’s demise, I did not consider a problem with the stove’s ground wire, but I’ll check.
Regarding connections to the sparker and the wires, the insulation on all 4 appears to be intact and is still flexible. The shrink-wrap on each spade is also intact.
Based on your suggestion, I will check the 2 igniters for debris. I will also take some contact cleaner to the burner knobs, as they are rather sticky and could be giving partial continuity. This is a glass-top cook unit, and there were some recent pot boil-overs before the sparker’s failure.
But what I’m hearing is that there are no installation ‘tricks’ for the sparker, right? Connect the 4 wires to the same terminals and leave it alone. No need to initially ground/discharge the coil, or something like that - ?
Based on the 4mA coil rating for the old H-W unit, and sharing the identical body shape & terminal configuration with the new GE module, are there any possible issues with the new module being different from the old one?
[quote=enottleson;566756]Thank you for such a swift reply, Joe. Sorry, my shorthand error: we’re both talking about the spark module. I did not realize the igniter was a different part.
The old spark module clicked when it was supposed to, until it abruptly failed some months ago; it is a Harper-Wyman KOOL LITE model 6520. The voltage rating stamped on it is 120v-60Hz-4mA.
Regarding incoming power, there is a good 3-wire grounded connection from the breaker box. The stove power cord still has 3 prongs, and plugs directly into the grounded outlet. Since the old sparker worked until it’s demise, I did not consider a problem with the stove’s ground wire, but I’ll check.
Regarding connections to the sparker and the wires, the insulation on all 4 appears to be intact and is still flexible. The shrink-wrap on each spade is also intact.
Based on your suggestion, I will check the 2 igniters for debris. I will also take some contact cleaner to the burner knobs, as they are rather sticky and could be giving partial continuity. This is a glass-top cook unit, and there were some recent pot boil-overs before the sparker’s failure.
But what I’m hearing is that there are no installation ‘tricks’ for the sparker, right? Connect the 4 wires to the same terminals and leave it alone. No need to initially ground/discharge the coil, or something like that - ?
Based on the 4mA coil rating for the old H-W unit, and sharing the identical body shape & terminal configuration with the new GE module, are there any possible issues with the new module being different from the old one?[/quote]
Enottleson,
On a range, especially with an electronic ignition, a good and proper earth ground is necessary, and very important. When we loose a ground or have a weak ground the capacitor in the spark module, can and usually does disipate the static charge, by making the igniter spark.
There’s not a major difference in the modules on your range, it’s not a re ignition module, which has other requirements. So your fine, and doing great. I think you’ll be fine once you check and clean the igniters and switches, but there is a very slight possibility of a bad spark module “in the box”.
