My GE model #wpre6100gwt washer will not spin or agitate. The electric water pump works fine and produces a good stream of water out the drain pipe. Continuity is normal through the magnetic lid switch, and 121 volts is detectable from the switch to the motor. The motor, tub, and transmission turn freely. The motor is clean and shows no sign of excessive heat. Is there a relatively easy way to check the motor without damaging the circuit board on top of it?
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]There are two things that most often cause this: [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[LIST]
- [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]That electronic board on the top of the motor stores fault codes and some of them will shut down the motor. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
- [SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] There is a fuse wrapped in tape on the right-hand side that could be blown. Since you have to cut the wires to test I would check this last. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/LIST][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]This page will explain how to diagnose and repair both of these problems HydroWave GE Washer Repair Guide[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
Resetting the codes worked. The machine appears to work normally now.
Thank you so much.
hI, i ahve exactly the same problem with my model Ge washer won’t spin or agitate after fill up help what is that??? i need to wash clothes
I was able to get my washer working again by clearing the error codes. My problem was apparently caused by a power interruption.
[COLOR=black][FONT="]To clear the error codes, turn the washer off. Disconnect power for about 20 seconds (pull the plug). Next, reconnect power and then open and close the lid five or more times within 12 seconds in the first 30 seconds of power-up.
As crazy as this sounds, it should work if your model has the same electronics and if this is the only problem. If this fails to work or the problem is recurring, you may need on-site technical assistance to repair the problem.
[/FONT][/COLOR]
Hi i tried that the code says that the motor is stuck i don’t know how to do that and get the agitator off the machine any help there???
I’m sorry. I can’t help you here. I personally leave the disassembly of these newer appliances to someone with more expertise and patience than I have.
Hi thanks anyways it’s working now i guess we just didn’t do the 1st reset right after sitting all night went back down & tried it again and yeah!!! it works..seems like the lid switch cause it blinked 7 times thanks
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]The light blinking 7 times means that the lid switch is stuck because the motor detected that the washer has been through the cycle 4 times and it hasn’t detected a lid opening. If the lid switch is bad the code will reoccur after 4 wash cycles. Sometimes these motors will flag an error for no reason so it may not come back a[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]nd I wouldn’t worry about unless it does come back. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]This page will show how to test the lid switch. [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer-repair.html[/SIZE][/FONT] [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]If the circuit fails to open with the lid up you need to replace the lid switch. [/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR]
[FONT=Arial Black] I HAVE A COMERCIAL FREEZER VERTICAL ONE DOOR BRAND “SUPERIOR PRODUCTS” THAT WHEN IT DOES ITS DEFROST CYCLE WATHER LEAKS ON THE INSIDE. WHAT COULD IT BE?[/FONT]
These are old posts but I just had this problem and the manual only said to reset it with the power-off. It said nothing about the lid open/close sequence. Worked like a charm!