The cooked drain solenoid caused a slow drain, so it required longer time to drain out all water. During the F1 test the water inlet valve was open only for about 30 seconds (compare to over a minute during normal cycle) and it was relatively smaller amount of water inside the dishwasher, so 75 seconds (by the test chart) for drain was enough.
Gene.
I replaced the solenoid assembly. Now the water does drain correctly at the end of the cycle leaving the tub dry. I am glad and thanks.
But now I have another problem. It is leaking a little water on the floor now. This wasn’t the case until I replaced the solenoid. When I saw the water on the floor after the first normal cycle completion, I placed a small plastic container under the valve that gets operated by the solenoid for the subsequent run. It collected all the water that seems to have come out (about 2oz) leaving the floor dry. I am attaching a picture for what it is worth. During the solenoid installation nothing got broken. So, it looks like the valve that gets operated by the solenoid is leaking when operated. Perhaps this leak is what burnt the first solenoid. So, need to fix this now. Will appreciate pointers.
CIMG3833.JPG (68.0 KB)
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If the water leak is coming from the shaft that the solenoid attaches to on the pump the drain shaft seal is bad. This is pretty simple to repair. Basically remove the solenoid, remove the small push nut get the seal out then reassemble. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]The trickiest part of this is making sure you don’t force the shaft into or out of the pump when trying to remove/install the push nut. This page has pictures and instructions GE Dishwasher Pump Leaking Repair Guide[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Scroll down to the section titled drain shaft seal. I hope this helps!
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Thanks for the reply. Water was indeed leaking from the shaft the solenoid attaches to as I could see it leak during the drain cycle.
I removed the solenoid, nudged the push nut gently to get the seal to close the space around the shaft well and reinstalled the solenoid. It seems to have fixed the leak 95% as I saw only few drops of water after I ran a full cycle. Perhaps I will do this one more round and watch it for a few days before ordering replacement parts (done two rounds of parts ordering, sequence switch first then solenoid assembly next).
But now I know what to change if I have to. Thanks again.
