Hi everyone, thanks in advance for looking.
I have a GE Triton Quiet Power III that USED to have a problem of not draining. Thanks to folks around here I was led to the piston-nut assembly which seems to be a common culprit and repaired it myself for $10. Win.
So that was about 3 month ago. All of a sudden, the dishwasher is not draining again?!!
A bit of a difference, the undrained water level this time is much higher. I bailed out the water and check the piston again an no wear so thats not the issue this time.
Where should I check for clogs? (i’m not too familiar with the dishwasher inner workings) Any other ideas?
If i run the DW it forces the old water out and fills with new water.
Also, it runs into the disposal.
Hi Applianceman, thanks for looking.
Model number is GSD5330D00WW
Its leaving literally 5 gallons of water on the bottom, When you run it again, that water will clear out and new water comes in.
Im really really hoping to troubleshoot this without pulling out the unit so any insight would GREATLY be appreciated.
Heres one more important piece of info that i just learned from my wife. The draining issue correlated with a “burning smell” per her. she just assumed it was one of the plasic baby cups on the heating coil, though never found the culprit. Since that smell, it hasnt worked.
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=#000000]If you start a cycle then press start/reset does [COLOR=red]all[/COLOR] the water drain out? Wait for it to start washing before you reset. [/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Also remove the bottom front panel and when you press start/reset see if the drain solenoid plunger gets pulled down. It is the black solenoid to the left of the pump with a plunger and a spring. [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Sometimes these solenoids burn up and this may be what you were smelling. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[/COLOR][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Your model does seem to have the check valve I was referring to. But I am not sure why it would pump out at first then not at the end of the cycle if this were the problem. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=‘Times New Roman’][COLOR=#000000]Just to make sure we are on the same page, you say it pumps out at first then refills with new water. Do you know if it pumps all the water out before it refills. It may send some water down the drain but not be pumping fast enough.[/COLOR][/FONT]
Hi,
I have the exact issue on my dishwasher. Model is GSD5620D00BB.
As maxweenus said, I also replaced the piston/nut assembly to resolve the drain issue about 6 months back. It was working fine till last week. But now leaves about 5 gallons of clean water at the end of the cycle. (I remember 6 months back when that issue came up, the remaining water used to be slightly dirty appearing like backwash. Now the remaining water is very clean which appears to be from the last rinse cycle and not from backwash.) I also smelled the mild plastic burning smell when it started acting up a week back.
I checked the piston/nut assembly I replaced 6 months back. It looks good.
I opened the unit, checked the hoses. Didn’t find anything clogging them.
I took out the pump (part 325), powered it up on the table with 120V and saw it running smoothly. Installed it back.
During the cycle, I do see several gallons of water being pumped out into the garbage disposal. But at the end it leaves a lot of water inside, while the dishes are clean but not dry.
I ran a F1 test cycle by pressing “Normal” and “Pots & Pans” together. At the end there was NO water left..! This seems to indicate pumps & hoses are all fine.
But when I ran a regular cycle next, there was water remaining again.
Could it be the controller, not providing enough time for the pump to pump out all the water?
Will appreciate any pointers/help.
Thanks in advance.
Gene,
Thanks for your reply. I presume you are referring to the “Washing”, “Rinsing”, “Sensing” green status lights.
If I run a F1 test cycle, at the end all the lights are off. There is absolutely no light that remains lit including the “clean” light.
If I run the regular cleaning cycle, the “Clean” light is on at the end, as it normally used to when functioning without issues. But now there is water left inside the tub.
Right after the cycle is over.
If I run the F1 test cycle (by pressing “Normal” and “Pots & Pans” together), it goes through the steps. I skip all the steps by pressing one of the keys to get to the last step where it pumps out the water for 75 seconds. When this step is complete, all the lights in the panel gets turned off (and the tub is empty since I skip the step where fresh water gets in, leaving only the remaining water from a regular cycle to be pumped out).
If I run a regular cycle, the “Clean” light alone remains lit (with water inside) at the end even hours after the cycle completion. This used to be the case even when it was working normally, as I will see this light on in the morning after turning it on for a normal run before going to bed.
When I took the drain pump out I did check the black flapper valve. It looked a bit old but not damaged. It was flexible, not stuck. So, I left it in as it is. I also checked the other flapper valve found inside the black rubber hose. That looked ok as well.
Since running the test cycle, skipping the steps and letting it run the pump 75 seconds pumps the water out, I wonder if the mechanical parts are all ok but the control is not giving the pump enough time to get the water out. But I am not sure why this would have changed on it own suddenly. Does the timer mechanism use mechanical cams where a broken cam piece could reduce the time?
That’s strange because it does not show any error codes (blinking status lights). In order to turn off the clean light you have to open and close the door.
There is a kind of timer which operates by the control board (#904 at the diagram). GE call it “sequence switch”. This is the only part which I can suspect in such situation. There are no way to test it. You have to order it, install and give it a try. You can return it If it would not fix the problem.
Thanks Gene. I will order this part and see if it fixes the issue. Two quick questions:
Though I think the flapper valves look ok, should I consider replacing them also?
I started using the F1 test cycle just last week when I saw the instructions sheet inside the dishwasher. At the of the test cycle, are there any status lights that are supposed to remain on? During the 7 or 8 times I have run the test cycle, when the cycle completes I never saw any lights being on.
One other observation. If I run another normal cycle after completing one with water still remaining in the tub, it goes through the first one or two steps (sensing, washing?) and then simply stops with couple of status LEDs flickering (not blinking) briefly just for a second. It looks as if power is pulled and a little bit of left over power from capacitors is randomly draining out. Even at this point there is no light remaining lit on the panel. It looks like the entire unit is powered down. If I open the door and close it again, normal light comes on.
BTW, yesterday night I verified this sequence one more time.
Ran the dishwasher with dirty dishes using normal cycle. I could see water getting pumped out properly at different points in the cycle.
When the cycle was complete, the “Clean” light was on. I opened the dishwasher and verified water was left in the tub inside.
I started a F1 test cycle, skipped through all the steps except the last one. Pump ran pumping water out to the garbage disposal and stopped. No lights were on anywhere on the panel when the test cycle completed. No water left in the tub.
[quote=tritonqp;713858]…1. Though I think the flapper valves look ok, should I consider replacing them also?..
…2. I started using the F1 test cycle… At the of the test cycle, are there any status lights that are supposed to remain on? During the 7 or 8 times I have run the test cycle, when the cycle completes I never saw any lights being on…
…3. One other observation. If I run another normal cycle after completing one with water still remaining in the tub, it goes through the first one or two steps (sensing, washing?) and then simply stops with couple of status LEDs flickering (not blinking) briefly just for a second…[/quote]
I don’t think so.
All these status lights are also a fault indicators. If during the test cycle no faults were sensed, then the lights are off.
It could be an indication of a detected problem. Perhaps a bad sequence switch.
Received the sequence switch I ordered. Replaced the old one with the new one and ran a cycle. Still see water remaining in the tub just as it did before.
Ran a F1 test cycle and skipped all the steps except the last one. Water got pumped out properly.
Thinking of returning the new switch since that is not the problem.
There is the drain solenoid on the left side of the main pump . Check if it works properly during the drain cycle, especially the last drain. Make sure it’s body not getting hot.
The top part of that solenoid appeared to have melted. At the bottom of the part, it looks like there was a little water a while back that has dried up now leaving a brown stain.
I didn’t see the metal hook attached to the white plastic cam move at all during the entire cycle. But the solenoid or the parts nearby did not get heated up at any point in the cycle.
I am attaching a picture. If this part is what had melted, it would also explain the burning smell I noticed couple of weeks back when the problem started.
Quick question. How does it drain the water properly when I use the F1 test cycle? The fact that this solenoid is not working doesn’t matter in that case?
Thanks.
The cooked drain solenoid caused a slow drain, so it required longer time to drain out all water. During the F1 test the water inlet valve was open only for about 30 seconds (compare to over a minute during normal cycle) and it was relatively smaller amount of water inside the dishwasher, so 75 seconds (by the test chart) for drain was enough.
