Ok… my GE side by side decided not to defrost the last couple of days. I
removed the back plate in the freezer and used a hair dryer to defost the coils. I got it back together now and its working good for now. My question is whats the most common to fail? Thermostat or the Heater? Does this frig have a defrost timer?
Thanks in advance!
Hello.
There are three parts involved in the defrost cycle.
Control board , defrost thermostat , defrost heater. Most common problem would be either heater or thermostat.
Determine which is bad by running continuity test. If any of them are open (no continuity) - replace the bad part. Remember that defrost thermostat must be ice cold when you test it. Just splice in new thermostat.
The defrost thermostat AP3884317
The defrost heater AP4355467
If your old heater is single tube , read the instructions.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSS22QFMBBB Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Post the result. Thank you.
Thank you! I just ordered them 2 parts. I’ll post the results after I install them.
After defrosting this thing I got up this morning and its still running! The piece between the doors in the middle where the doors seal is hot..
Hi.
Please explane what exactly you did to defrost the refrigerator.
All I did is remove the cover and used my wifes hair dryer to melt the ice until it was gone. Then I plugged it back in.
Hi.
It’s not a 100% clear what do you mean by “still running”. The snow will build up slowly. It’s going to take several days before the frig will stop working.
Regarding the hot divider. Pull out the frig and take the rear cover off. On the bottom right there is a condenser motor. Make sure it’s running. Also next to it there is condenser coils. Vacuum and brush them.
Post the results.
Ok I got the new heater and thermostat on and now it defrost all the time causing every thing in the freezer to thaw. It melts the ice cubes and when it freezes again the auger is jamed up. Then you have to break up the ice cubes for it to work again. Any ideas?
Hello, TOPGLOG.
Unfortunately you are not answering my questions. Remember - you are my eyes and hands.
I need you to respond on my questions, please.
Did you check the condenser motor, did you clean the coils?
Was the defrost heater , you replaced bad?
Thank you. Please post the results.
Simon.
Sorry. Yes the condenser motor is running and i did vacuum the coils. They were not to bad. I never checked to see which part was bad. I just replaced them both since there both common failures. The new heater is a dual tube.
After it defrost itself it freezes right back up. Just seems like its in defrost mode to long
Ok…my ice maker is pretty much worthless. Everytime it goes in defrost mode it melts the cubes and makes one big ice mass.
I’ve been doing some research and it seems I may have one or two bad thermistors. Does this sound like my problem?? Need help
Hi.
Most likely the problem is main control board.
It’s located at the rear of the refrigerator on the right behind the metal plate.
The control board AP7188100
Read the instructions (on some models adjustments required).
Thank you. Post the results.
Simon.
Thanks for your help I really appreciate it. but I think I’m going to scrap the fridge before I put in a mother board that may not fix it. This fridge has been nothing but a headache. This is the last GE piece of chit ill buy.
I have a GE GSS22QGMD BB side by side with the same issues. Freezer ices up, refrigerator gets warm. I replaced the thermostat switch about 3 years ago and it worked for a long time. Then the ice maker leaked, the water in the door was intermittent and now the refrigerator is warm again and freezer is iced up. I first replaced the heater with the new dual heater, that didn’t fix it. Now I am replacing the thermostat and one of the temp sensors tonight. I also will not invest anymore time or parts into this POS. This will be my last GE product, I wish that there was a better system to diagnose teh proper component to replace!:mad:
That sucks! I delt with the same issues as you for too long. I ended up selling the fridge for $75 to a buddy for his garage and went to Lowes and spent $2300 on a french door
Samsung. It better last! :rolleyes: good luck.
Well I have been struggling on, replaced the Mother Board since the wife did not want to buy another refrigerator yet and another thermister. No luck, still freezing up the coils, frigerator gets warm. Out of items to repalce at this point.:mad:
Hi.
You can check the defrost heater and thermostat from the control board. Unplug the unit.
Locate the J7 plug and J9(3 wire plug). Disconnect one of them and check resistance using the multimeter between J7-9 and J9. You should have 22 ohm +. If the circuit is open - replace the defrost heater.
Thank you.
Simon.
Hi Simon,
I directly can do that and the thermister reads closed at 0 degrees and open at room temperature. The heater has I think 28 ohms resistance, I removed it to check that. The motherboard is new, thermister is new, the heater is new and I replaced two temperature sensors. It simply will not defrost. Lasts about one or two weeks, freezes up and the refrigerator side gets warm. It is just not simple to determine what is wrong at this point.
I like your test points better since that includes the wiring and connections.
Time for a new one, seems like newer appliances just do not last and to diagnose solid state circuits is not as easy as in past generations. Before I could advance the defrost circuit and have power to teh heater, etc, now I have no idea.
One intersting thng for others is that I found a very nice schematic inside the refrigerator/freezer control housing! Wish I knew it was there at first.
Craig