It just stopped keeping items cold, now I’m in the troubleshooting mode I hear the relay cycling on-off every 5-10 minutes. I was just going to order one but not certain that is it. Should I just replace it anyway (cost?), or is it a bigger problem—something else to look at? Purchased unit in 2002.
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric GTS20ICNAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a manual for this series of units
31-9073 GE Top Mount Refrigerator Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.
And here is a good link on how to check things.
Appliance Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com
Note: Looks like your unit does not use a start relay it uses a PTC.
Check the compressor windings.
One thing to note is that even if the compressor windings are OK it does not totally eliminate a bad compressor as it may have mechanical problems.
But if you do find a bad or grounded winding then you know for sure that the compressor is toast.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
Just an additional point as a fellow just pointed out to me that the website says that the compressor will read 0 ohms on the windings. The4y are just checking for continuity.
Any decent multi meter should give a few ohms for the winding resistances.
Sir,
I just fixed my Kenmore refrigerator. I want to share my experience here.
My Kenmore refrigerator is model # 25357672791, side by side refrigerator. It stopped working a few days ago.
With plugging in power, light on and compressor not working.
I unplugged the relay (by the side of compressor), and shaked the relay and it seems relay had broken inside.
So I went to this web site: Appliance Parts search by model or part number | AppliancePartsPros.com, I bought my new relay, it cost $2.49 plus $7.25 shipping cost. In two days, I received new relay.
The relay for my refrigerator has also protector assembled, so I pulled the old protector out from the side of compressor and assembled old protector with new relay. Then I plugged the new relay/ old protector assembly back to side of compressor.
When I plugged into power and got small click sound from somewhere in refrigerator, but the fan and compressor seem dead and did nothing. Strange???
Then I did the tests, step by step under the situation of “Refrigerator does not run but the light works” by following this website: compressor of refrigerator can not run normally.-BidAnswer.com Fast helps for all your questions.
All components are good, but light keeps on and the fan and compressor do not working.
I knew that all my parts are good, just something inside cut power off for fan and compressor.
When I checked Defrost Timer, I noted this defrost timer has reset button. It tells we need to reset the defrost timer.
(The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill “toe kick” of the refrigerator. This is my case.)
So I use a small screw drive to push that little white dot button for about 30 seconds, my refrigerator started. I solved the problem and fixed my refrigerator.
Hope this will help.
Denman,
Thanks for the info and the Links! I have the multi meter—not sure about “a couple of feet” in length leads—that’s something I’ve never seen (after 30 years in aviation). Many thanks! I’ll post results.
[quote=denman;424944]Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric GTS20ICNAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a manual for this series of units
31-9073 GE Top Mount Refrigerator Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.
And here is a good link on how to check things.
Appliance Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com
Note: Looks like your unit does not use a start relay it uses a PTC.
Check the compressor windings.
One thing to note is that even if the compressor windings are OK it does not totally eliminate a bad compressor as it may have mechanical problems.
But if you do find a bad or grounded winding then you know for sure that the compressor is toast.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
Just an additional point as a fellow just pointed out to me that the website says that the compressor will read 0 ohms on the windings. The4y are just checking for continuity.
Any decent multi meter should give a few ohms for the winding resistances.[/quote]
Lu at Hotmail!
That was great, and very interesting, I’ll be checking some these exact things you’re referring to. Thxs for the Links as well, they sound familiar, as I’ve checked several researching advice. pt
[quote=chao_lu@hotmail.com;425070]Sir,
I just fixed my Kenmore refrigerator. I want to share my experience here.
My Kenmore refrigerator is model # 25357672791, side by side refrigerator. It stopped working a few days ago.
With plugging in power, light on and compressor not working.
I unplugged the relay (by the side of compressor), and shaked the relay and it seems relay had broken inside.
So I went to this web site: Appliance Parts search by model or part number | AppliancePartsPros.com, I bought my new relay, it cost $2.49 plus $7.25 shipping cost. In two days, I received new relay.
The relay for my refrigerator has also protector assembled, so I pulled the old protector out from the side of compressor and assembled old protector with new relay. Then I plugged the new relay/ old protector assembly back to side of compressor.
When I plugged into power and got small click sound from somewhere in refrigerator, but the fan and compressor seem dead and did nothing. Strange???
Then I did the tests, step by step under the situation of “Refrigerator does not run but the light works” by following this website: compressor of refrigerator can not run normally.-BidAnswer.com Fast helps for all your questions.
All components are good, but light keeps on and the fan and compressor do not working.
I knew that all my parts are good, just something inside cut power off for fan and compressor.
When I checked Defrost Timer, I noted this defrost timer has reset button. It tells we need to reset the defrost timer.
(The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill “toe kick” of the refrigerator. This is my case.)
So I use a small screw drive to push that little white dot button for about 30 seconds, my refrigerator started. I solved the problem and fixed my refrigerator.
Hope this will help.[/quote]
Denman,
With my Refrig breaking down on Friday I couldn’t do much through the weekend; as I was busy with several chores, so I’m back. Yesterday I wanted to remove the Relay, but without prying and/or breaking off the cover, I see no clear way of removing it from the compressor. It appears to be a press-fit cover that goes over the relay, but I’m not certain, and I cannot assertain just how it is attached the compressor. Can you help? The sites yopu offered were helpful (!!!) and I’m still hoping its the Relay, but the compressor is a concern. Many Thanks.
[quote=denman;424944]Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric GTS20ICNAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a manual for this series of units
31-9073 GE Top Mount Refrigerator Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.
And here is a good link on how to check things.
Appliance Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com
Note: Looks like your unit does not use a start relay it uses a PTC.
Check the compressor windings.
One thing to note is that even if the compressor windings are OK it does not totally eliminate a bad compressor as it may have mechanical problems.
But if you do find a bad or grounded winding then you know for sure that the compressor is toast.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
Just an additional point as a fellow just pointed out to me that the website says that the compressor will read 0 ohms on the windings. The4y are just checking for continuity.
Any decent multi meter should give a few ohms for the winding resistances.[/quote]
As far as I know it should be the same as Page 13 in the manual.
I have had NO LUCK on retrieving manuals from the following link, because I clicked on “download” before I joined. Copy-Paste:
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]Here is a manual for this series of units
31-9073 GE Top Mount Refrigerator Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.
Everytime I try and go back to this link, it opens the “Error” message that I recieved because I wasn’t a member. All searches for this (31-9073) manual have been unsuccesful.:mad: [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]If anyone can download this to a PDF file or any file, or tell me how to get the stupid thing, I’d be very greatful[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]thxs. pt[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]
[/COLOR][/LEFT]
OK
I down loaded it and then put it on this file hosting service, following is the link.
Download GE Top Mount Refrigerator.pdf
Denman,
You’ve responded a lot to my troubles, I want to thank you! I should be fine from here; lot’s of good information in the manual, not sure how I missed this the first time you responded. Have to get my head on straight—many thanks, pt:)
[quote=denman;427501]OK
I down loaded it and then put it on this file hosting service, following is the link.
Download GE Top Mount Refrigerator.pdf[/quote]