GE Refrigerator GSS22WGMDBB Not keeping things cold

Brand: GE
Model Number: GSS22WGMDBB
Main Symptom: Freezer and Refrigerator getting warm
What happens & when:

After noticing that the freezer and refrigerator were getting warm, I unplugged it and dethawed everything. After plugging back in, everything was working for about 2 weeks then returned to the same problem. I took the inside freezer panel off and saw that the coils were all frozen.

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:

  • I tested the defrost heater with a multimeter and read 15 ohms between both heating tubes. I assumed it was good. I checked the defrost heater thermostat (continuity) and it was closed at room temperature. When I applied heat, it opened. I assumed it was good. Am I to assume at this point that the control circuit board is bad? I think that’s the board connected to the freezer and refrigerator temperature controls. Is that correct? It’s about 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches. Are there other tests I can perform? Are my assumptions correct at this point?

Photos / video link:

When you say the coils were all frozen were the coated and blocked by Ice? Is the ever any ice or water in the bottom of the freezer compartment or on the floor around the fridge? Do you hear the fan run?

Basically all the coils seemed to be encased by one big block of ice. I don’t see much if any ice or water on the bottom. I do seem to recall seeing some water on the floor for a short period of time. The fan seems to be running all the time.

Sounds as if your defrost drain is plugged up allowing water from the defrost cycle to accumulate and eventually block the coils and prevent proper air flow

On your GE GSS22WGMDBB side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost drain is located behind the evaporator cover in the freezer compartment, directly below the evaporator coil. When this drain clogs with ice or debris, defrost water can’t drain into the pan underneath the refrigerator, so it overflows and freezes on the freezer floor or leaks onto the kitchen floor.

Tools Needed

  • 1/4" nut driver
  • Phillips screwdriver (if equipped)
  • Hair dryer or handheld steamer
  • Turkey baster or large syringe
  • Small flexible plastic tubing or zip tie
  • Towels
  • Hot water mixed with a teaspoon of baking soda

How to Access the Defrost Drain

  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Remove all food, shelves, and the freezer baskets.
  3. Remove the screws securing the rear freezer evaporator cover using a 1/4" nut driver.
  4. Carefully pull the cover forward and disconnect the evaporator fan connector if necessary.
  5. You’ll now see the evaporator coil. At the bottom is a metal drain trough, and in the center of that trough is the defrost drain opening.

Clear the Clogged Drain

  1. If the drain is frozen over, melt the ice with a hair dryer on low or, even better, a handheld steamer. Keep the heat moving to avoid damaging the plastic liner.
  2. Once the drain opening is visible, fill a turkey baster with hot (not boiling) water and forcefully flush the drain several times.
  3. If water doesn’t flow through, gently work a flexible plastic tube or zip tie into the drain to break up the blockage. Avoid using metal wire that could puncture the drain tube.
  4. Continue flushing until you hear water running freely into the drain pan underneath the refrigerator.
  5. Mix 1 teaspoon of baking soda with 2 cups of hot water and give the drain one final flush. This helps remove residue and reduce odors.

Check the Drain Exit

If the drain still won’t clear:

  1. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall.
  2. Remove the lower rear access panel.
  3. Locate the drain tube where it empties into the drain pan.
  4. Clean any debris, sludge, or mold from the end of the drain tube before reinstalling the panel.

Reassemble

  • Reinstall the evaporator cover and reconnect the fan if it was unplugged.
  • Reinstall the shelves and baskets.
  • Plug the refrigerator back in and allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.

If the drain freezes up again within a few weeks, let me know. GE used a drain heat probe on many of these models, and adding or replacing that probe can permanently prevent repeat freeze-ups.

First, just an FYI that the fridge has been unplugged and at room temperature for about 4 days now. I took the back cover off and saw that the baffles on the

condenser fan motor were caked with crud. You can see from the attached picture. I vacuumed the condenser fan motor as best as I could. I noticed that the pan at the very bottom had sitting water to about the bottom of the drain tube. I used a shop vacuum to suck up all the water, then tested the drain tube to verify that water was flowing freely on to the pan.

Yeah That could have been a big part of your issue as well

Ok. I’ll put everything back together and plug it back in and see if that does it. Thank you so much for your help!

So you’re sure that defrost drain to the pan under the fridge is clear?

Yes, it seems to be free flowing. I didn’t mention earlier, but the very bottom seemed to be blocked by some styrofoam, which I removed. Not sure if that was an issue.

Are you still having the issue?

I put everything back together and plugged in a couple of days ago. So far everything is working as it should. We will see in a few weeks if the problem returns.