Common GE oven affliction: “Locked Door” light suddenly appeared. Door is not locked, no self-clean was started, lock feature is automatic lock, not a manual latch. I have: a) shut down power via circuit breaker; b) run clean cycle for 3 hours. All to no avail: Locked DOOR light has remained after each attempt. I even removed all of the wires from the lock motor, but after powering back up, “Locked” light flashing returns. So the oven is not usable. I am wondering if this is an issue with electronic control unit and not the more common explanation of a faulty lock motor. I will order a new ECU if so…
Locate the 8 pin connector at the control board and unplug it. Check for continuity between the wires connected to the pins 4 & 5 and 3 & 5.
The normal readings with the door unlocked suppose to be: between the pins 4 & 5 - infinity, between the pins 3 & 5 - close to 0 Ohms.
If the readings are correct, replace the control board.
If the readings are incorrect, replace the door latch assembly.
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Gene.
Thank You Gene. You Have Many Helpful Posts Over The Years. I Will Try That. Chuck
Gene: one add’l comment: would it not be the ECU, since I have already removed the lock motor wires and yet the “Locked Door” light remains? Thank you, chuck mchugh
Chuck,
It does not mean anything because the control board did not sense the latch at all after you removed the wires.
More likely the problem is a bad control board but I would like to confirm it.
Gene.
Great, thank you. Again: u seem to belong in the Hall of Fame in this forum. Thank you again…I will let you know the problem. regards, chuck
You are welcome Chuck. Thank you for your good words. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Hi Gene: I replaced the lock motor and this fixed the lock light problem. You were right as usual. Unfortunately and surprisingly when I tested the burners they did not work: one burner fired and came on modestly; the other 3 fired on the same burner. So: turning all 4 burner switches creates a spark in the same burner only! chuck
Hi Chuck,
I’m glad to hear that one problem fixed.
About the new problem I’m afraid I did not get it clear. Wherever you turn on any burner knob all burner igniters should spark. Can you explain more specifically what is going on please?
Gene.
Hi Gene: I brought in a local repair man yesterday: in lifting the stove to access the Lock motor, I broke 2 of the small pipes that carry gas. My bad, although the repair is trivial. Anyway: thru your help I learned that ovens have lock motors that often fail, that removing wires from the lock motor will not remove the flashing LOCK LIGHT. Thank you for the education. chuck
You are welcome Chuck. I hope you are finally out of problems with your home appliances. If there will be anything else we can help you with, drop us a line.
Gene.
I just experienced this same problem…at least it happened AFTER Thanksgiving!
Question though: Since the lock light staying on prevents me from using the oven …is there a way to bypass the defective lock so I can use the oven until I can replace the motor unit?
Thanks everyone.
This has happened to me twice and both times I have used a combination of buttons. Never worked the first several times but eventually the light will go off…Here’s how: Open oven door and manually hold in the door latch (black button either in the center or on the right hand side). While holding in button, push the clean button, then the start button. I held in the start button for a full minute, released it and held the cancel button for almost a minute. Like I said It never worked the first time and after several attempts I think the computer in the oven needs to catch up, so I waited two or three hours and tried it again and threw up my hands both times. Oddly enough, both times I turned around after a while and the light was off. Other suggestions that have worked for others is holding in the clock button and then hitting cancel…Sometimes tripping the breaker, waiting a while and then flip back on.Hopefully one of these suggestions will save you repair cost…FRUSTRATING SITUATION THAT NEEDS TO ON THE TABLE AT GE
Like the others, my oven won’t do anything, “Locked Door” is flashing but the door is not locked.
I disconnected the flat flexible cable from the control panel in back. The meter jumped a little when I touched 3 & 5 in the socket in the control panel, and the oven beeped. That means the problem is the door latch assembly – which I don’t need because I don’t ever use self-cleaning.
Can I run a jump wire to bypass the locking mechanism?