I put a new transistor in mine. It is relatively easy and the part is very cheap.
Find that old thread and there is pretty much detail there on what to order and how to accomplish the repair.
Ok, thanks a lot. 
What size watt soldering iron did you fells use?? Also did you use heat sinks when soldering the piece?
I used a 40 Watt Weller… no heat sinks necessary
I am having a similar problem with my dryer. I replaced the transistor but it still seems to not be working right… however, it is working better.
I’m going to try and replace the transistor again and am wondering what is normal for the blower?
When the blower motor is functioning properly does it continually run while the dryer is on?
I’m also having trouble with my dryer’s (model # DPGT750GC2PL)blower motor. Its the same motor even though its a gas dryer. I ordered the transistor (K322A1266Y) and I’ve pulled the motor out. Now, I took the four screws out the hold the casing of the motor together, and I pulled the cover of the casing off, but I’m not sure how to get the circuit board off so it can be worked on. Help! First time for everything…
heeb8:
You have to take the aluminum housings off of both sides of the motor. This should expose the circuit board allowing you access to the transistor solder pads.
The housing that covered the circuit board end (solder end) stuck on for me and I had to gently pry between the housing and the windings through the cutout where the wiring harness comes through. Just remove the rubber grommet and you will see where to pry. Shouldn’t take much since the housings are slip fit.
Question for those who bought new transistors - what markings are you seeing on the actual part you received?
I ordered the[COLOR=black] KSA733CYTA from Mouser and the part I received has ‘A733’ on the first line and ‘YCJ39’ on the second line. I looked on the Fairchild Semiconductor site and it seems to be a valid part, although the date code indicates a lead free component. I know it has been mentioned earlier in this thread that this was a problem. Also, I have the LG motor with the [COLOR=#333333]K322A1266Y transistor. Is this going to be an issue using the KSA733CYTA as a replacement?[/COLOR][/COLOR]
update: I just tried the ‘A733 YCJ39’ transistor and the motor did not work. While the dryer was going through the factory test, it looked like the motor would turn half way around then coast to a stop. A few seconds later it would turn the other way and coast to a stop. Never made a full revolution (let alone the required rpm).
I did notice that the transistor case was hot to the touch after soldering. Could I have damaged the device with too much heat?
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[FONT=Arial]I did test the inverter board and everything came out OK.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Thanks![/FONT]
Hi Anyone please help…
I need help in removing the blower wheel on my GE Harmony Gas Dryer. I followed all the steps in the technical manual and in this thread and I am stuck where I have to remove the blower wheel. From here I have to get to the blower motor.
Please I need help… I am referring manual [COLOR=#22229c]http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals…mony_Dryer.pdf[/COLOR] I am stuck at page 28 step 6. I was able to remove the 13mm center nut, then can’t remove blower wheel.
Let me know how to remove the blower wheel
Thanks. :o
Never mind guys, it took a few tries to remove the blower wheel. Removed it and replaced the transistor with mouser part number KSA733CYTA. Put the motor back together and put all the part back.
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]Ran both diagnostics screens. 15 minutes of diagnostics everything seem to be working OK. Motor rpm shows up immediately after 1900-2000rpm Flame sensor kicks on and enough heat is being generated.
Back/My cycles: No problem detected
Will run the laundry loads Saturday morning and see what happens.[/COLOR][/LEFT]
Thanks for the research on the transistor part for the blower.
[quote=jniggli;203427]Hey Benjen,
The only thing I can think of is that we are looking at bad blower motors. Possibly they are getting hot and pulling too much current and shutting down the inverter board power or there is some type of glitchy problem with the feedback coming from the motor. My inverter board seems to be supplying all voltages according to the tests.
My dryer (for now) seems to dry a load before it wants to screw up, making me think it is heat related.
With that said:
I think we both need a Blower Motor
P/N WE17X10008
(The motor in my dryer is actually made by LG and crosses to their P/N 4681EL1001A)
The only other part I see in the possibility list is the Inverter PWB (main board)
P/N WE04X10120
But I don’t see anything that leads me to think this part is bad.
Anybody else want to suggest anything???
And if anyone has had this problem before and fixed it, PLEASE chime in and let us know what fixed it for you![/quote]
Did u change the motor? And if u did is the problem solved? I got the same exact problem.. It is very challenging
I had the same problem with our DPGT750EC1WW GE dryer - intermittent blower/heat issue. The heat shuts down when the blower stops, it’s supposed to do that or it could cause a fire, so fixing the blower motor was the action needed. I followed the steps in this thread for removing the blower motor and replacing the transistor (labeled Q1 on the pc board) and it fixed the problem.
For those not accustomed to soldering discrete components: Use solder wick to remove the solder holding the bad transistor (just ask for it at Radio Shack) to the pc board on the motor. Keep in mind that excessive heat could harm the new transistor, so don’t hold the solder gun on the leads for too long while soldering. Use just a bit of flux to help the solder flow or buy solder that has flux in it. Be careful not to “bridge” solder between the leads - you only need a small bit of solder on each lead. When finished, the solder should be bright and shiny - not dull and gray. Dull and gray means a “cold” solder joint and the transistor will either not work at all or will be intermittent. If it does look dull and gray, just touch the solder gun to it again and as soon as the solder goes liquid - remove the gun immediately.
NOTE: Static electricity KILLS transistors - so don’t remove the transistor from it’s static-proof bag until you’re seated and ready to do the work. Make sure you ground yourself on something metal immediately before picking up the new transistor, you need to be static free or the transistor will be damaged. Try to touch the leads as little as possible. NEVER walk around a room with a transistor in your bare hand.
Replacing the transistor fixed my dryer and saved me a lot of money. Many thanks to those in this thread that found the solution and passed the information on!
I replaced the transistor and my dryer worked fine for a few months and then the blower motor went back to being intermittent. Now the blower comes on for 2 minutes or so and then shuts off. Any ideas on what I should do? Should I just try and replace the transistor again or should I look into getting a new motor?
I would suggest a new motor and, if you will order it from APP then it comes with one year warranty.
Gene,
My dryer was doing the same thing. I took the blower motor apart and used some electrical contact cleaner and a lint free cloth and wiped out the encoder slot. So far this has taken care of my issue.
I have a GE Harmony as well Model #DPGT750EC1PL and drying time started to increase until no heat at all. I replaced the blower motor and it worked fine for 1 minute than all power was lost. I checked the fuse in the inverter (nicely potted board btw… :(…) and it checked fine… both outlet safety and high limit stats ohm out at about 0.5 ohm. I am guseeing the inverter but have no clue. I did noth after replacing the blower and all power lost the elements smelled like they were cooking pretty good. Can anyone please advise short of wasting another 230 on top of 130.
What does it show on the display?
Did you check the power outlet?
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric DPGT750EC1PL Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Thank you for this thread. My blower stopped working last week in my Dryer, I did some searching and came accross this thread. I ordered Part number KSA733CYTA from Mouser for just $0.06 and replaced the transistor in the motor. Everything works great now. Thank you again, this thread saved me from buying a new motor.
It seams I am still having problems with my blower motor. A did about 3 loads of laundry before it stopped working again. I replaced the Transistor again. and it worked for about 2-3 more loads. I Then replaced it again, this time it only worked for like 10 minutes. Each time it fails the blower motor will not fire up until I replace the Transistor. I think I may need a new motor all together, but I am afraid there could be something else causing it to go bad. I don’t want to spend 150 on a new motor only to have that one fail on my right away too.
[quote=Gene;402176]What does it show on the display?
Did you check the power outlet?
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric DPGT750EC1PL Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.[/quote]
I am having the same problem. I replaced the transistor on the blower. Put it back together and now have no power on the display screen. I have reset my breakers and I am getting 240V to the outlet. Where are the fuses or switches that could possibly be causing this?
Check the safety thermostats (#310 & #620 on the diagram) for continuity.
Check the LCD board ribbon connection to the main control board.
Gene.