I have ge profile harmony dryer and it runs but will not dry clothes after one cycle. I ran the trouble check and it points first check inlet thermistor then to blower motor is not getting up to speed. However when I let it sit overnight and ran it this morning had heat and ran which makes me think it is the inlet thermistor being flakey.
My model is DPGT750EC1PL and it appears to have two thermistor’s one shows as 471 on parts diagram on appliancepartspro, the other is 272 at back of drum. I think 471 is inlet thermistor but not sure and then what is best way to access it to replace it? ie take off front or back panel and any things to watch for when removing panel to get access since Dryer is five years old and has never been serviced.
The inlet thermistor is located on the inside of the inlet air duct and is shown as #272 on the diagram. In order to remove the thermistor you have to remove the inlet thermistor access cover located on the back of the dryer.
You may want to clean all air ducts inside the dryer and the vent line outside the dryer all the way through the vent outlet before replacing any parts.
If it would not help, I would replace both thermistors due to intermittent problem.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric DPGT750EC1PL Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Thanks,
I bought both thermistor’s and the inlet is easy to replace.
Question is how to get to the outlet thermistor, it looks like there are a number of screw on the back panel and looks like it is also under the back of the control console. Does the control console have to come off to remove the back panel or should it slide out from under it?
The outlet thermistor is located on the blower housing in front of the dryer. You can access it by removing the front panel.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;162682]The outlet thermistor is located on the blower housing in front of the dryer. You can access it by removing the front panel.
Gene.[/quote]
Hi Gene, We are having the exact same issue with our dryer and I have always fixed my own appliances, but this dryer is harder to figure out. I did come to the conclusion that the problem was the thermister(s), but I feel like I am going to break the front panel when I try to get it off. Is there a trick to getting it off? Thanks!
The instructions are attached to the reply.
Gene.
How to remove the front panel.pdf (88.4 KB)
How to remove the backsplash.pdf (62.8 KB)
How to remove the top cover.pdf (97.6 KB)
My dryer is having the same problem. My question is has anyone actually been able to figure out what needed to be replaced?? I tried the inlet thermistor so far and it did not work. Please let me know.
I actually have the same issue going on also. My dyer will heat up a little bit not full temp after it has been cooled down. Also there is no circulation going through it no air out the exhaust. I had a tech come and open it up last night and he had no idea what the problem could be. He had guessed that the magnet that controls the blower fan was not working properly. My problems are everything spins fine but no heat is coming into it only after letting it sit overnight there is a small amount of heat, and there is no air coming out the exhaust. Please help.
I’m trying to beat this problem too!
Take a look at my post-
I’m thinking GE uses a Blower Motor that is failing consistantly.
If anybody gets this problem resolved try and add to each others posts!
Replaced the Blower Motor and mine is fixed
This 5-year old dryers heating capacity became lower over time causing excessive drying time … until finally no heat. Blower was working and everything else seemed in order as well. Went on-line to read the discussion(s) on this unit and after taking a few VOM readings decided on ordering the blower motor … despite 14-ohm readings across the windings. The elements were suspect firstly but they ohm’d out correctly at 17-ohms each and on visual inspection appeared intact.
Installed the new blower motor (belt for drum finally made since and CW rotation) and tested unit with door opened to check for heat. I could feel and see the glow from heating elements and thought all would be okay until after about a minute the unit completely lost power, no screen, nothing.
Went out an bought a digital ohm meter (DVOM) because I can’t read the cheap small analog scales anyway :). It became apparent I did not have 120-volts at connector CN 10 on the inverter power board. That left the inlet safety thermostat suspect after checking the schematic and continuity top side … so tore it down again and looked at thermostat and noticed a little button on it. My first instinct was to push it in because it reminded me of miniature circuit breaker. I felt a slight click and read 0.2-ohms across it but did not know if that was the cause for the lack of continuity. So I tested all the logical paths and then found the idler switch (mechanical micro switch that the tensioner pulley actuates in an apparent attempt to protect everything in case of belt failure). I had the drum out and the switch was open so … until I propped the mechanism up I of couse still had no path for the 120-VAC to connector CN 10. Ah, now I had continuity but had to put the inlet safety thermostat to a heat test to see if it opened, it did.
So what is this thing … the inlet safety thermostat? After finding more information I discovered that I should not have ignored the almost imperceptible ohms (0.2-ohms) that I read initially. I was familiar with thermistors (used in toasters to curling irons) and thermostats in cars that would be hard to test short of boiling it in water; however, this should have read 2.27-k ohms rather than 0.2-ohms. I am guessing the resistance on this device decreases with increasing temperature telling the computer (that wild-card device called the inverter) to decrease the voltage to element 2 first as temperatures approach its trip limit (120-C). This to me seemed logical because heat kept falling of as this thermally lost resistance. I do not know if this caused the blower motor to fail or if they failed in tandem but the run away temps (due to a working blower motor newly installed) and tripping of this device (which previously could not trip because of a faulty blower motor and therefore lack of heat) is going to be the final screw in this machine.
I would like to note that I did retest both the inlet and outlet thermistors before ordering this part and the inlet thermistor tested about 10 times higher than several sources suggested (227-k ohms rather than 2.27-k ohms). I had also read in one of the discussions that someone else had this same experience. Then I read a discrepancy in the GE Tech Manual that showed in a few places the lower value and the higher value in another. This lead me to conclude the higher value is correct.
All I can hope now is that the new inlet safety thermostat reads 2.27-k ohms and this is what the inverter needs to see in order to regulate everything. I’ll keep you posted.
— lamp
I must be on drugs. Please disregard the post dated April 9, 2011.:eek:
how to remove back panel on ge profile harmony???
What is the complete model number?
Gene.
What do you need access to? It’s easier to take off the front and remove the belt and drum. Take that out and you have complete access to the entire dryer. The back panel is notched into the sides. Very difficult to remove.
How Do you replace the blower
The instructions are attached to the post.
Gene.
How to remove the top cover.pdf (97.6 KB)
How to remove the front panel.pdf (88.4 KB)
How to remove the blower motor.pdf (52.3 KB)
How to remove the blower motor 2.pdf (197.7 KB)