Brand: GE Profile
Model Number: JTD5000EN1ES
Main Symptom: Broiler element won’t turn off
What happens & when: Scenario is this: Turn on upper oven (Bake 350) > Oven heats as expected and reaches temp > Broiler element remains on and doesn’t cycle off when temp is reached > Temperature keeps rising > Bake cycle is cancelled > Broiler element turns off.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Temp sensor checks out with good resistance
Photos / video link:
With the bake element cycling properly and the broil turning off when the cycle is cancelled, you’ve either got a grounded out broiler circuit or the upper broil relay is stuck closed. The bake, convection, and broil share 1 common relay on the control board for the L2 leg, so the broil element is going to be getting about 120v AC as long as a heating cycle is engaged, but the upper broil has an individual relay for L1, unlike the lower broil which has a relay that switches between the bake and broil circuit.
If you can access the terminals to the upper broil element with the unit plugged in but no cycle started, check for AC voltage from each of the terminals to chassis ground and neutral. If you’ve got around 120v AC then the broil relay on the control board AP6994738 is stuck closed and that board will need to be replaced.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-control-rc17-flashed-wb27x36805-ap6994738.html
If you don’t have voltage there, unplug the unit or turn it off at the breaker, disconnect the harness from the element, and check the terminals on the broil element AP7243594 to chassis ground for continuity. If continuity is found then the element will need to be replaced. If it isn’t then you’ll need to check the wiring to the element to chassis ground for continuity to see if it has been damaged and grounded out. If the wiring is good, then you’re back to the relay on the control staying closed when it shouldn’t.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-broil-element-wb44x48686-ap7243594.html
Here is the wiring diagram for your model.
31-2000512 GE JTD5000EN1ES Double Wall Oven Mini Manual.pdf (448.1 KB)
Hey, thanks for the replies!
Questions:
It seems to me that if all control relays are on the control board and not replaceable independently, there is no option but for the control board to be replaced. The element is just a resistive element that generates heat when electricity flows through it, but it is only on when the controller starts a cycle. I think the element must work fine since it comes on when electricity is applied and turns off when electricity is removed.
Am I thinking wrongly about this?
Thanks a bunch for your input!
Those relays are on the control board referenced earlier in this thread, AP6994738. If a relay has failed and is stuck closed then that control would need to be replaced.
The element will heat if it has power/voltage and a completed circuit, so if the element has grounded out it will have a voltage path or completed circuit when voltage is applied to it, in this case L2 to Ground. Once a cycle is started the L2’s double line break relay stays closed as long as a heating cycle is in operation, providing that leg to bake, broil, and the convection element simultaneously. Normally the broil element would require the relay for L1 on the control board to be closed to complete the circuit, but if it has grounded out then it will heat to a certain extent as long as there is voltage to it from the L2 side. When the heating cycle is cancelled the L2 relay opens so there is no longer any voltage to the element.
If the L1 broil relay is stuck closed but the element hasn’t grounded out then you will have 120v to the element as long as the oven is plugged in/breaker is on, but it isn’t going to heat until a cycle is started because the circuit isn’t complete.
Follow up:
It turns out that the control panel was bad. Replaced it and all is well now!
Thanks again for your help!