**Brand: GE Profile
**Model Number: dpsr473ew0ww
**Main Symptom: auto setting just runs forever
**What happens & when: Timed dry works fine, but when I set the knob to “more dry” or “less dry” or anywhere in between, the machine simply runs until I turn it off. This problem just started in the last few days after nearly 30 years of perfect service.
I have had someone on another forum say I need to replace the whole timer knob assembly, and I am looking for a second opinion on whether it’s this or something else. Should I be checking other components? Is there a moisture sensor in this model which could be bad, for example?
This resistor should read about 4500 ohms +/-10%, so it should be good as long as it reads 4050 ohms-4950 ohms.
Double check ALL of the vent, venting and vent hood are clean and clear. Make sure both heating elements are good. Make sure the heating surface of the operating thermostat (on the fan blower housing) is good and clean and not coated with anything.
If the heat is not up to snuff in the auto cycle with clothes in the dryer it may not get hot enough to cycle the operating thermostat to advance the timer.
Venting is definitely clear, I checked that some months ago when I replaced the front bearing. I’ll take the front of the machine off this evening and see if I can tell anything about the operating thermostat on the fan blower housing.
EDIT: the thermostat on the blower housing was a little dusty so I cleaned it off.
The heating element - by overriding any number of safety mechanisms I was able to momentarily get the heating elements to turn on. Only one of them glows orange. Regardless of which heat setting I use, the other doesn’t turn on. So, does that make it look like we have a bad heating element? Or is there something I should be checking upstream of the heating element, which could be keeping it from energizing?
Jeff, I replaced the heating element. Took the reflector out, disconnected all the limit switches and such, and then threaded a new element in. It was evident once I had it out that the inner coil was broken. After threading the new element in, I have continuity from both terminals on the left to the one terminal on the right. I put it all back into the cabinet and re-hooked up the limit switches. But I did something really dumb…I forgot to connect the electrical wires back to the heating element terminals. Flipped the breaker back on and got a spark and tripped the breaker. The pinkish/orange wire that connects to the element on the right side (the single terminal end of the element) was touching the chassis at the time. I got a spark there and a puff of smoke at the terminal block on the motor before the breaker tripped.
I quickly realized my mistake. I reconnected the wires that go to the element terminals. Flipped the breaker back on. Now, the motor will turn on but the elements won’t heat up.
With the voltmeter I found I have 120VAC from the single terminal end of the element to the chassis…I believe that’s normal since the chassis is neutral. But I have no voltage on the element itself, testing from the 2 terminals at the end of the element that has 2 terminals, or from one of those terminals to the single terminal on the other end. I have tested continuity through all the limit switches’ larger terminals and I have continuity there. I have inspected for damage at the terminal block on the motor and I don’t see any damage there. I have tested the resistor behind the control panel, and it’s still measuring ~4500 ohms.
I feel like there must be a fuse or a limit switch that I have blown, I just don’t know where to look for it. Any ideas?
At the terminal block I was at 122VAC L1 to LN and L2 to LN, and 244VAC from L1 to L2.
I ended up finding a good used Whirlpool from a local repair guy, bought it from him, and he took the old one to strip down for parts and gave me a little back on it. With a family our size I needed to get us into a good dryer quickly.
