I have a similar problem to some of the posts- the Refrigerator is warming. Looked at Gene’s remarks and doesn’t look like I have a classic defrost system.
Any thoughts on whether it could be a motherboard or evap fan issue?
Thanks
You refrigerator is more complicated than most others because it has two evaporators, one in each compartment. Perform the troubleshooting as described in the attached file and post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for GE PSC23PSTASS | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Arctica with dual evaporator trouibleshooting.pdf (87.1 KB)
Thanks. I ran the diagnostics but the screens returned as blanks (no numbers illuminated - just blank).
[Thanks. I ran the diagnostics. It returned a Fail on “Communication check between Dispenser Control and Main Control”. All other test seem to pass.
Thanks
I am back one year later with another problem (artica psc23psta unit). Code failure 0, 4. Think it’s the motherboard this time?
0;4 is not the failure code. It shows the test mode you activated (read the instructions attached earlier).
What exactly is wrong with the refrigerator?
Gene.
[QUOTE=johnthompson;334610]I am back one year later with another problem (artica psc23psta unit). Code failure 0, 4. Think it’s the motherboard this time?[/QUOTE]
This seems to be similar to the problems I had with my refrigerator
GE Profile Arctica PSC23PSTA about 5 to 7 years old has two problems:
(1) both the freezer and refrigerator can not keep set temperature - both are warmer.
freezer set at 0 and it shows 4 degrees
fridge set at 37 and it shows 43 degrees
(2) the ice maker does not make ice (water dispenser is ok, if I put ice cubes in the big plastic container, it dispenses the cubes or crashes them ok)
I run the diagnostic code and it returned 0 4 - FAIL
0 4 = Communication check between Dispenser Control and Main Control
Everything else seemed to be ok
I had exactly the same two problems 18 months ago and after replacing the main control board, the temperatures returned to normal but the ice maker was not fixed and I did not do anything about it. The main control board came with a connector which I did not use so I always wandered if that was the problem with the ice maker ??? Should I replace the board again ?
Did you turn the “on-off” switch on? Does your ice maker have a green LED on the right side? If it does, what is the status of the LED?
Gene.
[quote=Gene;138211]You refrigerator is more complicated than most others because it has two evaporators, one in each compartment. Perform the troubleshooting as described in the attached file and post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for GE PSC23PSTASS | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.[/quote]
Hi, I have read tons of things all over this website - I love it! Thanks so much! Do you happen to have one of these diagnostic mode description for the top freezer type? It seems almost all made were SxS, but mine is not. Model PTS22LCPARWW - made in 2003 I believe. I gather there are several difference. No damper for one. I am trying to determine possible evap fan problem - almost sure it is the fan itself. Thanks
The switch is on, and I don’t have a green LED on the side. The water does not fill ice tray although the water works in the door.
Currently the temperature is again fluctuating between 42 and 46 in the fridge and between -2 and 4 in the freezer. I already replaced the main board two times in the last two years… Is it time again ? Is there anything that GE is doing to fix what appear to be a design problem?
[quote=ftmail;655028]The switch is on, and I don’t have a green LED on the side. The water does not fill ice tray although the water works in the door.
Currently the temperature is again fluctuating between 42 and 46 in the fridge and between -2 and 4 in the freezer. I already replaced the main board two times in the last two years… Is it time again ? Is there anything that GE is doing to fix what appear to be a design problem?[/quote]
Well, there are two different problems with your refrigerator.
- Ice maker.
Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator (#800 on the diagram). Swap the wires between the 2 coils. Depress the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and check for water inside the ice maker.
If there is water, replace the ice maker. It is not repairable.
If there is no water, check the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage. If the tube is clear, replace the water inlet valve.
- Fluctuating temperature.
Can you describe how did you measure the temperature please?
Did you clean the condenser coils?
Run the Control diagnostics like you did it before and post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSC23PSTASS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
I’ve read all your conversations with Rick (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/406870-ge-electronic-evap-fan-pc-board-problem.html) and I believe his diagnostic is absolutely right. The evaporator fan motor is the culprit. I would recommend to keep the refrigerator off until you’ll replace it to prevent very possible damage to the main control board. I don’t think any thermistors are involved so far.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;655180]Well, there are two different problems with your refrigerator.
- Ice maker.
Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator (#800 on the diagram). Swap the wires between the 2 coils. Depress the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and check for water inside the ice maker.
If there is water, replace the ice maker. It is not repairable.
If there is no water, check the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage. If the tube is clear, replace the water inlet valve.
- Fluctuating temperature.
Can you describe how did you measure the temperature please?
Did you clean the condenser coils?
Run the Control diagnostics like you did it before and post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSC23PSTASS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.[/quote]
Hi Gene,
For the temperature fluctuating problem, I did not measure the actual temperature, but I read the display and it did appear to be correct as the frezer was still frozen. This morning, the frezer showed 13 degrees, and the stuff in the freezer started to defrost, so the readings apear to be ok. In the refrigerator area the temp was 45 today.
I also cleaned the condenser coils yesterady and they were completely covered with dust.
The diagnostics test result was the same as the day before and showed
“Communication check between Dispenser Control and Main Control” - Failed. Everything else appeared to be ok.
For the problem with the ice maker, after switching the wires between the two coils and pressing the water dispenser, water went into the ice maker tray, so it seems that I need a new ice maker.
Remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with frost. Post the results.
Gene.
I’ve got a GE ProfilePSC25NGSA BB that’s been giving me headaches for almost three years. I’m pretty hard headed though, so I’m still fighting it. This is the first time I’ll be trying the diagnostic tool (didn’t know it existed). Coil in the refrigerator keeps freezing up. I’ve cleaned heat exchanger in the back, exchanged thermisters and changed the motherboard (which worked for about a year) but the problem is back again. Recently, it works well for about 2 weeks after unplugging for 24 hours to allow the coil to defrost, but then, eventually, it freezes over again.
I ran the diagnostics for the 0-2, 0-4, 0-6, 0-7, 0-8, 1-0, and 1-1, but there was no indication of a system failure. There also wasn’t a Pass or Fail indication for the Dampers Test and the Fan Test. Should I run the 1-2 through 1-6 Diagnostics?
The cause of the problem can be a bad fresh food thermistor, a bad fresh food evaporator thermistor or a bad main control board.
You can check both thermistors from the main control board.
Set an ohmmeter on a highest scale. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the J1 plug from the main control board. Measure the resistance between the wires connected to the J1-5 & the J1-1 and the J1-5 & the J1-2 at the plug. Measure the temperature in the fresh food compartment at the same time, using a good refrigerator thermometer. It will be good if you can measure the temperature at the fresh food evaporator too.
Post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSC25NGSBBB Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Post the results.
Very useful codes to use. Thanks. I ran all combinations, 0-2 had the return showing 61-14 instead of p or f. All others seem to be fine. I did not have water line plugged in. Please suggest what went wrong, I set the temperatures to be 0-38,it never came down below 4-40, even several days after adjustment.
Make sure the condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator are clean.
Gene.
[QUOTE=Gene;815155]Make sure the condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator are clean.
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Gene! I cleaned the back completely with a can of air, it was not very dirty. There were some yellowish oil stains on the bottom pan. The compressor was kind of hot, and the white plastic fan to its right, mounted on the motor (?) shaft, was not running at all for the half hour I was cleaning and restarting the refrigerator.
It is always the top shelf under the ice maker that did not keep food frozen, the lower shelves were fine. When I turned on the turbo cool, the temperature display on the refrigerator side turned into special characters, not digits. For a minute or so I opened the door, the freezer temperature display changed from 5 to 15. I don’t think that is right.
The lowest shelf inside the refrigerator side had some cold water sitting on the bottom pan. I saw rusty streaks from the coils.
Any suggestion? Thanks again. The model was PSC25MSTASS, 2007.
[QUOTE=johnthompson;138425][Thanks. I ran the diagnostics. It returned a Fail on “Communication check between Dispenser Control and Main Control”. All other test seem to pass.
Thanks[/QUOTE]
Hi. Revisiting this thread. Freezer works great, fridge won’t go below 40 and struggles when full, even when set to 9. Tech came #5 thermister failed, he replaced the one in the fridge on the wall between it and the freezer. No change. Next day no change, still fails, he replaces the one behind the evaporator coil, and leaves. I run the other diagnostics and i got a fail on 0:3, like the original poster. Bad thermister and control board?