My dryer stopped heating. So I pulled it apart and started testing all the sensors. The inlet control thermostat showed infinity (thus no continuity) so I ordered a new one from this site. The new one shows up, I test it before installing, it also shows infinity. I contact customer support. They apologize and send me a new one. It shows up today, I test it. It shows infinity.
The tester seems to work fine, including coming back with text book resistance readings from the gas control (it’s a gas heater). All the other sensors show a resistance between 0 and 100. It’s just this control that there is an issue.
Could they have a bad batch of controllers?
I even tried popping this one in the freezer to see if it would close the circuit, but nothing…
My dirty laundry is starting to build up after a week of having no dryer and I’m running low on options for getting it back up and running quickly.
The part in question is a thermistor not a thermostat. You can measure resistance at the room temp. is about 90 Kohm. Most likely it’s good.
Check the ignitor, control coils, heat relay in the control board.
I posted a response, but it hasn’t shown up in the last hour, so I’m posting again.
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;746910]Hi.
The part in question is a thermistor not a thermostat. You can measure resistance at the room temp. is about 90 Kohm. Most likely it’s good.
Check the ignitor, control coils, heat relay in the control board.
90 Kohms. Thanks. The manual claimed it was ohms, so I was testing at the wrong level. All three controls (including the original) test fine now.
Any suggestions for how to test the ignitor, control coils or heat relay? I already tested the resistance on the gas valve coil assembly and it was fine.
The resistance for the ignitor is about 353, so that looks good. Flame sensor has continuity. I checked the outlet control and it matched the inlet control.
I don’t see anything in the manual about the “heat relay” though. How is that tested and where is it located?
Being out of ideas for the moment, I put the dryer back together and ran it (BTW, I tested the heating relay once I found it on the power board and it was “open”, so no continuity). I turned it one (nothing in it) and the heat came on. Seemed to be working. So I ran a load of towels and put them in the dryer. Initially the heat came on. I could hear the flames kick on and warm, moist air started condensing on the dryer window. I then ran off to do things and came back later. At that time the dryer was in “cool down”, or “wrinkle free mode”, but the towels were still wet and completely cold to the touch.
Based on things I read, it sounds like I should be replacing the gas valve coils. They can often turn on fine initially (and test fine for resistance), but then once they get warmed up they can fail an result in a loss of heat. Does this sound like the right solution?
[QUOTE=RayHe;785602]Brokk - I’m troubleshooting a similar dryer. Did the last step resolve the issue? Thanks![/QUOTE]
Sorry, I never posted a followup.
I had a false lead this whole time trying to replace the sensor. The information I had gotten from a repair video and documents on the internet indicated a much lower resistance (100?). In reality the resistance is much higher (1000, 2000?), so I was getting a false reading, since I had my sensitivity set so low. In reality, the sensor was fine.
Short answer: Replacing the gas control valves was simple and solved the problem.
I would recommend you look at your belt and the little tab things that hold the barrel up off the door. Those are parts that wear out easily and don’t cost much, so you might as well replace them while you have it all taken apart.