Brand: GE Model Number: GTWP1800D0WW Main Symptom: Water leaking What happens & when: After sounding like a jet engine taking off and water leaking underneath the washer, I replaced the tub seal and the washer bearing while I was in there. After about 5 cycles, the washer started leaking again. Under the tub, on the main shaft, where I just did my repairs, is dry and it appeared water was coming out of the overflow tube based on where the water pooled up in the washer. I then replaced the water pressure switch hose because it seemed like the washer was overfilling and if you blew into the tube, you could hear the pressure switch turn on and off without fail. Unfortunately, the washer is still leaking. I can see the water is coming out of the overflow tube, as well as out of the top of the tub. The inside lid is wet, the outside of the tub is wet, and the back side of the front panel as well. No water was coming out of the main drain hose from the tub to the pump, out of the pump, or the drain to the back of the washer. This happened during the rinse cycle when it was spinning. I am thinking it could be the water level pressure switch but I am at a loss and was hoping for some help before I throw more parts at it.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Tub seal, washer bearing, water level pressure hose
Photos / video link:
Based on everything you’ve described, I don’t think the pressure switch is the most likely culprit.
The biggest clue is this:
The washer only leaks during the rinse spin.
Water is coming out of the overflow tube and over the top of the tub.
The tub seal, bearing, drain hose, and pump are all dry.
That points toward water being forced out of the tub, not leaking through a failed seal.
Most Likely Causes (in order)
1. Partially Restricted Drain System (Most Likely)
Even though you don’t see any leaks from the drain hose or pump, the washer may not be draining as fast as it’s filling during the spray rinse.
During spin rinse, this GE washer sprays fresh water into the basket while the pump is continuously draining.
If the drain system can’t keep up:
Water level rises
The spinning basket throws water against the tub ring
Water exits through the overflow tube and over the top of the tub
Test
Remove the drain hose from the standpipe or laundry tub.
Run a spin/rinse cycle.
You should see a very strong, continuous stream of water.
If the flow is weak or surges:
Inspect the pump for debris.
Check for a partially collapsed drain hose.
Make sure the standpipe isn’t restricting flow.
Verify the pump pulley spins freely.
2. Water Inlet Valve Not Closing Completely
If the cold valve is leaking by, extra water enters during spin.
Since the basket is spinning at high speed, that water is immediately thrown outward.
Test
Start a spin cycle.
Watch the water entering.
You should see a light spray only when commanded.
If water continues entering after it should stop, or dribbles continuously, replace the inlet valve.
3. Pressure Switch Out of Calibration
Since you can hear the switch click, the diaphragm is probably working.
However, it may be switching at the wrong pressure.
Easy Test
Run a normal wash.
When the washer reaches the selected water level:
Unplug the washer.
If water continues filling, the inlet valve is mechanically stuck open.
If water stops immediately, the valve is OK and the control system shut it off correctly.
4. Pressure Dome Restricted
Replacing the hose doesn’t eliminate a blockage in the pressure chamber on the outer tub.
Soap residue can partially clog the small air chamber.
That delays the pressure signal reaching the switch.
Inspect where the pressure hose connects to the tub and make sure the nipple and air chamber are completely clear.
5. Tub Ring or Splash Guard Issue
Since you recently replaced the bearing and tub seal, inspect the plastic tub cover (tub ring).
If it isn’t fully seated or one of the retaining tabs isn’t locked, the spray rinse can direct water over the top of the tub even with the correct water level.
Check that:
The tub ring is fully snapped into place all the way around.
No sections are warped or cracked.
The overflow port aligns correctly.
One Thing I’d Like to Know
When the leak occurs, does the basket appear to be at full-speed spin while the water is spraying in, or has the washer already slowed down?
That answer helps determine whether the water is being:
thrown over the tub ring during spray rinse (mechanical/splash issue), or
actually overfilling because the water level control isn’t shutting the fill off.
My Recommendation
Based on your description, I’d investigate in this order:
Verify the drain flow is strong during the spray rinse.
Inspect the tub ring for proper installation or damage.
Check for a partially clogged pressure dome on the outer tub.
Perform the unplug test to determine whether the inlet valve is leaking by.
Replace the water level pressure switch only if those tests indicate the water level is actually rising too high under normal filling.
A pressure switch failure is certainly possible, but on this GE design it’s less common than a restricted pressure dome, weak drain performance, or water being thrown over the tub ring during the spray rinse.