Brand:GE
**Model Number:**PVD28BYNFS Main Symptom:Freezer Temp Too Low What happens & when: Freezer not cold enough to keep ice cream solid.
Error Code (if any): I had one F0020 error code last week but none since.
Parts or tests already tried: I turned on the Freezer Defrost heater mode (Test 60) and measured the output voltage to the Heater and it was 120 VAC. The impedance of the heater measured 68 Ohms which is in range. Using a thermal measuring device I did not detect any substantial temp increase on the currently installed heater and the new part I ordered from you when I plugged it in in place of the original installed part.
I also have purchased two thermistors for the freezer but have not installed those either as the Thermistor tests do show variations as the freezer door is opened and closed.
The freezer was completely frosted over last week when I first removed the freezer evaporator cover. I used a hair dryer to remove all of the frost. A week later there is some frost on the coils again but I don’t know if there should be any at all.
The evaporator should have a nice lite coating of frost on all of the evaporator coils. If the frost builds up to where air can not pass through, there are some tests we can do to see what might be causing this issue. What does the frost pattern look like (a picture would be best is available) and does the compressor run for 8 hours continuously or does it cycle off as if the system thinks it is cold enough?
This lasted for about a week and then had a build up on the lower part of the coils and i do not have a picture of that. Two days ago, I got the same F0200 error message.
I did unplug the old heater, measured its resistance and it returned 69 ohms. The freezer connector was putting out 120 VAC. I plugged the heater back in but it did not ever seem to get even warm. Using a thermal meter it was not any warmer than the surrounding parts in the freezer. I have a new heater, plugged it in (without removing the old heater) and got the same results.
Could it be one of the thermistors or the control board? One of the thermistors (the one attached to the panel - Test 27) did read significantly different in terms of its temperature (+27 vs -2 for the one attached to the refrigerant line - Test 28) but now they read -5 and -15, respectively.
With the defrost heater plugged in, the main control can be accessed to test the heater circuit for resistance. With the connection J3 disconnected from the main control, do you get a resistance reading of 69 Ohms when testing from the red wire at pin 4 to the orange wire at pin 1?
When the wire connection is removed from the control, there are usually metal tabs that are accessible on the wire connector that directly connects to the wire itself. The metal tab can be used instead of trying to get a probe directly onto the wire.
The metal tabs are on the board side. I used two paper clips to insert inside the connector. I get zero resistance on the meter when I remove the connector and the same when I put the fridge in Test 60 which is the Heater Load test.
On the wires, there is usually one long side where there are thin metal plates from the wire locks securing the wire to the plastic connector. The pins on the main control are not needed for a circuit test.
