This may be two problems, because one by one, the burners stopped lighting, even though they clicked. Sometimes that would resolve if I cleaned them, but not always. In fact, I could clean the Rt rear, put it together, and the Lt front would start to light again! But eventually no amount of cleaning helped.
Now, however, they do not even click. There is power to the unit, evidenced by the oven working and pre-heating indicators working.
Do I need 4 igniters? Do I need something else, even?
There is an electrical switch (see the following link) on each of the burner valves that switches power to the module when the burner valve is turned. When powered the module clicks.
It would be unusual for all of those switches to have failed time so there may be a problem with the spark module itself. If power was getting to it when any of the burners was turned on but it was not clicking, the spark module would likely be defective and need to be replaced.
That could be due to the spark module getting ‘weak’ with age.
That could just be coincidence or there might also be a problem with the burner’s spark electrodes or their insulators. Neither of those should prevent the module from clicking though.
This sounds very logical and is much apprieciated. I guess I would first want to replace the GE JGBP30BEA4WH Spark Module Can you tell me which exploded diagram features this, and whether it is obvious how to get it all apart. I am capable of almost any type of repair, but have never popped the top on this stove at all.
I see it in the illustration. And I probably wasn’t clear enough, saying, “is ‘it’ obvious”–I guess I meant does anything jump up and bite you when you are trying to get the control panel appart, or does unscrewing the end caps lead to a straightforward dissasembly. I am going to try it, and hope that it goes alreight.