Hello,
I’m looking for some tech assistance that the phone service guy couldn’t provide. I have a GE electric downdraft cooktop, model jp3859r1wh. One day I heard a pop and discovered that one of the burner wires had shorted out to the metal body of the cooktop. I ordered a replacement receptacle assembly, part AP2013499. The problem is that the wires that come off that part terminate in spade-type terminals. They need to tie in to round terminals in a 4-wire connector. Unfortunately, I screwed myself by pulling the old wires out of the connector instead of cutting in the middle and splicing in the new wire. I managed to get one of the old terminals out of the connector more or less intact; the other one was FUBAR. So now I have no way to tie the new wire into the existing connector. Looking at the parts diagram and the corresponding part & pictures I can’t see if there is a replacement terminal. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Knowing GE, I doubt it. A whole ‘wiring harness’ might be the only thing they would sell to correct it although a service technician might bypass the terminal block altogether if possible, cutting and joining the mating wires together one by one.
Trying to get such things from a company even with the best product support is often very challenging. And GE is not known (far from it in fact) for providing the best product support to begin with unfortunately. :rolleyes:
JMO
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
Good advice; I’ll just splice the wire in. Thanks!
In the category of “Nothing is Easy,” I spliced the wire in, connected everything back up and tested it. Results: No heat at the burner that I replaced the wires for. The adjacent burner warms up just fine, however. (it also warms up when its own switch is turned on). So both switches turn on the one burner; neither switch turns on the one I replaced the wiring for.
I don’t know how it could be cross-connected – this happens even when I have the newly spliced wires disconnected. 
Any thoughts?