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Brand:GE Cafe Model Number:C2S986SEL2SS Main Symptom:Oven functions do not work. What happens & when: Oven functions go on for about 10 seconds then off. Then won’t work (make small beep) but no display for a long (1/2 to 1 hr) time, then return , but still won’t work. On UI display board only light switch, timer, clock and settings function.
Error Code (if any):980,682, and 684
Parts or tests already tried:Power cycled several times. Main control board Part # WB27X29493 replaced. UI display board now lights ,service mode and fault display now work. In service mode, all oven functions work for 15 seconds.
Photos / video link:
Hello pdgrave473, it sounds like there may be an issue with the cooling fan circuit. When in service mode, and the cooling fan is on, does the cooling fan turn on at a full speed or is it slow?
When the range shuts down, the thermal cutoffs would need to be tested for continuity after unplugging the power cord. If the thermal cutoffs have continuity, the wire harness in between the main control and the user interface control may need to be inspected for any loose connections or damage. The power cord may also need to be checked to identify if there is a loose connection as well. Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Please read the history on this issue. With the power off there is no reading on the ohm meter between the poles of the disconnected high limit thermo switch. Assuming I’m testing the right thing. ( small black, 35mm film canister size thing under the convection motor) There is no visible damage or lose connections on the wiring harness or lose wires on the power supply chord.
I just realized I tested the capacitor motor. Where is the high temp limit switch or thermo cut off as you call it or are we not talking about the same thing?
If you follow the red wire up, it should connect into the thermal cut-off, then a second red wire should go from the thermal cut-off up to the main control. It should be about a 3/4 to 1 inch diameter disc close to the same measurement in height and it will commonly have a purple or white sticker in the center.
The main red power wire traces up to the left upper corner of the back of the oven. there it goes into the left side just above the ignition box and under the oven cooling fan motor. The item in the photo is inside the oven above the light pointing down. Not sure if it’s relevant. Is the wire to the control panel from the cutoff high voltage or low.
The thermal cut-off should look very close to the thermostat in this picture. Based on the part diagram, it should have been on the back of the appliance. Since this is not the case here, it is likely that it is placed either behind the control panel or near the blower fan. What can be done to bypass having to disassemble the range is to test from the red wire to the black wire at the main control relay boxes. If you get 240 Volts AC when the range shuts down, the thermostat is good. At that point, the wires running from the main control connection J801 to the user interface control would need to be tested for continuity after the power cord is unplugged. If continuity is present when the range has failed, the user interface would be the likely cause of failure. GE WB56X28189 Range Glass & Touch Board Asm | Genuine OEM Part
I am waiting for the oven controls on the UI screen to reset after turning the power back on. Not sure if this is unusual. It usually takes about 45 minutes. I also noticed when I press the bake setting button , as usual it makes a faint beep and a red light on the main control board flashes 9 times and then goes out. What might this indicate?
Hello again. I tested the thermo cutoff ,in the manner you suggested, it tested at 240 volts in all conditions. I just finished testing the continuity on the wiring harnesses between the main control board and the ui board. All read less than 1 ohm. I assume this points to the UI display board as the culprit. Please advise if there is anything left to test or if the board itself can be tested. I am not understanding how the simple act of activating the Wi Fi controls and preforming an automatic software update can blowout both the main and UI control boards! I also would like some assurance that this will work. I’m not real keen on spending almost 800.00$ and not having a working oven. You may not be aware that I live in a remote area and it would cost me 3-400.00$ just to get a certified repair person out here. I understand this unit is not under warrantee and none of this is fault. I appreciate your help and advice and before this happened I loved the range. Thanks
With this occurring immediately after a software update, it is likely that the update did not go through properly. If it is available, try to redownload the update. It may correct the issue. If not, it would very likely be a software failure in the user interface control is causing the failure, and replacing the user interface control would be the only other option I can think of.
Resolution ! I contacted a WI FI person at Smart HQ and after two hours we got the software update restarted. The oven now works fine and even has an air fryer setting it didn’t have before. Couple of things you may want to note: The Wi FI system won’t work properly with a 5G connection. It needs to be a 2.4G for this model. ( This may have been the original problem.) Also, when you want to set up the Wi Fi you must press and hold the remote enable button for 3 or 4 seconds to activate it. I don’t believe either of these are in the owners manual. Thanks for your help. Phil
