I have a gas range and the other night the power flicked and now it will not come back on. I have power to the plug but it will not come on. Please help
Andrew,
I can’t get any information on the model number you supplied,
Could you re check and make sure, and update us.
In general,
If the range is a “free standing” gas range(control panel and clock on back of,and above the cooktop,
You may have a bad/broken wire, or a bad ERC/Clock.
If the range is a “slide in” gas range( control panel, with knobs and ERC/Clock,on the front of the range) you may have an open thermal fuse, a bad/broken wire or ERC/Clock.
That’s the best I can do for you, until you get a good model number.
Good Luck,
The model is 790.7312703 and the serial number is VF83565714. It has the clock on the back and nothing is getting power. Does it have a fuse?
Andrew,
That model number still does not come up in my SEARS parts or tech info.
But the 790 tells me who made it.
With your description and your question,
the same applies as my previous post,
No there is no inline fuse on the power wires to the display,
You’ll need to check for damaged wires to the ERC/Clock, if no wires are damaged, you’ll need to replace the ERC/Clock.
Good Luck,
Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.
I am sorry I wrote the number down wrong. The serial number is 790.71312703. Will you please look that up and let me know how it can be fixed. The entire unit does not have power, but I can still lite the stovetop with a match. Any help is much appreciated.
Andrew,
Thanks for the update,
Are you sure there is 120 VAC at the outlet, that the range is plugged into ?
Based on your post, you have no voltage to, or in the range.
Do you have a multi meter, so you can check for voltage ?
You can plug a lamp, hair dryer or something, into the outlet and see if that product works.
Since you’ll most likely have the range moved out, doing that, and if you have voltage,at the outlet,
You can remove the rear panel cover, and start looking for a burnt, loose, damaged wire at the terminal block,(where the line cord attaches to the wiring harness behind the back panel,
That’s when you’ll need the multi meter, to check for loss of the 120 VAC, unless there’s somthing obvious.
I found the problem, the power cord was burned, so I ordered a new one online and fixed the problem for $25.00.
Now the dishwasher that I just replaced the motherboard in will not drain. The pump makes a strange humming noise, so I ordered a new one and now it does the same thing. What could it be?
The dishwasher is a kenmore model 587.16102800. Thanks
Andrew,
Thanks for the model number,
You replaced the motherboard and the pump/motor assembly, and the motor only hums ?
???
Does the dishwasher fill with water ?
Does it drain the water out ?
It may be running empty and the hum you hear is the motor running.
The drain pump is a separate component, and should drain the unit, wether the pump/motor runs or not.
When you had the pump motor out, did you check to see if there was debris,crud in the pump body/housing ?
You pretty much coverred most possibilities, with the board and motor.
Other than voltage and damaged wires between the two components.
You’ll need to check and see if you’re getting at least 108 VAC at the wiring in the junction box, when the motor is trying to start.
Good Luck,
The pump looks different than the one in the picture above. It is black with a small rotor and connects with a hose off the bottom and then the drain hose connects to it. The unit fills with water and does not drain. I don’t know what else to try. I have cleaned out the machine to check for somthing that could be clogged in there and it is free of debri.
Andrew,
That sounds like a drain pump, not a wash motor/pump assembly,
Ok, the dishwasher fills and washes but wont drain, the new drain pump only hums but there’s nothing jamming the impeller, as far as you can tell.
We’re back to a loose or damaged wire.
Do this(if you want to try)
Disconnect the wire harness from the pump assembly,
Remove the new pump, and get a 120 VAC motor test cord
(or make one up 3 prong short extension cord and 3 alligator clips)
Attach the clips to the terminals and ground lugs, and plug the test cord into an outlet, the drain motor should run(be careful) if it does, that will help pin it down to debris in the wash pump or drain hoses, or a bad wire connection.
I found the problem the drain hose was clogged up, I took it off and unclogged it and it works perfectly now. Thanks for your help.
Andrew,
Great, glad you figured it out.
We’re happy to have been some help.
