Whenever I turn on my GE XL-44 gas oven, the oven ignites and starts to heat up. After about one minute, the GFCI circuit breaker that powers the outlet that the oven is plugged into trips. This causes the oven to turn off. The GFCI trips again almost immediately if it is reset. I have isolated the GFCI and found that it is the oven and not some other appliance that trips the breaker. I have replaced the GFCI breaker. Still it doesn’t work right. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening and what to do about it?
I suspected it was the line, so I plugged the oven into a different circuit that also has a GFI. It tripped that GFI also. This started relatively recently. It worked fine for 8+ years. When I plugged into a regular outlet it worked fine.
According to the Installation instructions the range should be connected to 120-volt, 60 Hertz, properly grounded branch circuit protected by a 15-amp or 20-amp circuit breaker or time delay fuse. GFCI is very sensitive to any small current leaking to ground what is very possible with the range due to the electronic ignition.
I would recommend not to use a GFCI for the range.
The thing has me baffled because the GFCI breaker that tripped all the time was a new one and I had to have it plugged into an extension cord which ran to the laundry room in order to make the range work. Incredibly, the laundry room outlet is also a GFCI but it never trips. The issue is moot now because the range is sitting in my garage. I have torn my kitchen down to the studs and am re-doing everything, wiring included. Thanks for the support anyway.
Mark
Did you check the size of the GFCIs? It can be 15 Amps or 20 Amps.
If you re-doing wiring in the kitchen, I would recommend to make two separate lines: one with GFCI and another one with regular breaker. Using GFCI you can get same problems with refrigerator and/or dishwasher. The best thing is to get a professional advice from a local certified electrician.
That is darn good advice. I have added 1500 sq. ft. and included in that is a big two-cook kitchen. I will have 3 separate 20 amp GFCI’s for my countertops and island and dedicated lines for my garbage disposals, dishwasher, freezer and frig. The only place I will use GFCIs will be the countertops.
But Gene, what difference would the 15 vs. 20 Amp breaker make? The gas range maybe would pull a max of 1000 watts for oven gas igniter. I can’t imagine needing 20. But hey, maybe that was the problem. It was a 15 Amp GFCI. Like I said it won’t matter to me anymore. I am installing an electric oven in the new space. The old gas one is out in the garage wait for me to list it on Craigslist, where I bought it for 75 bucks.
I can’t afford a certified electrician. If I had to pay for all the work to be done, I wouldn’t be getting my new kitchen.
I understand your point but it is very important to do everything by the codes. If you can not afford to hire a pro to do the job for you then, at least, try to get a professional consultation.
You are absolutely right. It is essential to follow the electrical codes for safety reasons. Where I live, the homeowner is allowed to do electrical wiring work on their own home, but it must be inspected by the building department to ensure compliance with the codes. The inspectors here are very helpful and ensure that homeowners comply with the codes.
I will finish the wiring of the new kitchen and steer clear of using a GFCI for the new oven, but will use a dedicated line instead.
