Gas Dryer runs fine, heat recently stopped

Brand:Kenmore
Model Number:110.7696205
Main Symptom:no heat
What happens & when:runs fine, heat recently stopped

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:

1. Thermal Fuse has continuity –> Good

2. Cycling Thermostat has continuity on terminals at ends (not middle) –> Good

3. High-limit thermostat has continuity –> Good

4. Flame sensor – Has continuity.

5. Igniter - Needs to test between 50-400 ohms. Mine is 80 ohms –> Good ??
Igniter does not glow when powered on with heat setting and flame sensor wires are shorted.

6. Gas valve coils - May be a problem, but my igniter never glows, so I think that’s a prerequisite to solve first, right?

5. Timer / twist knob failure that needs to be tested for continuity using wiring diagram?

Thank you very much in advance. :beating_heart:

Is there continuity at the timer from terminal BK to terminal R with the red wire disconnected?

WilliamM_APP_Team, thank you for the very clear directions.

Dryer unplugged. I disconnected the connector as shown to reveal the two terminals (red arrows), and tested multiple times to confirm no, there is not any continuity between terminal BK to terminal R.

Does it gain continuity if set to a normal cycle? If not, the timer has failed. WP3976576 Timer | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

Yes, it gains continuity when the Time knob is set to a normal cycle, as shown.

Even though it tested as having resistance, a voltage check at the gas valve harness will be the last stop. With the wires on the timer connected back, the lower front panel removed, meter hooked into the blue wire and the black wire at the connection connection just before it goes to the valve assembly, is there 120 Volts AC when the dryer is started?

Sorry for the delay, work.

Yes. With everything else reconnected,
I disconnected the 3-wire connector going into the gas valve assembly,
inserted the multimeter’s prongs into the blue and black wires,
set multimeter to 200V AC setting,
same timer settings as shown above,
press Start, dryer blows,
meter reads 117 volts AC.

Since there is voltage present, it sounds like the igniter is failing under load. 279311 Dryer Igniter Kit And Bracket | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

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Bingo, new igniter solved the no-glow problem. Thank you very much.
Now, igniter glows and burner fires initially.

However, while testing with a couple wet towels,
I see after burner ignites/fires and initial burn cycle heats things up, gas and fire go off as expected. But when drying cycle cools to the point where it needs more heat, the igniter glows, but the burner doesn’t fire up a 2nd time - see this video Dryer lights only intially.mp4 (SharePoint link)
This igniter-only behavior happens every few minutes as drying asks burner for more heat.

During my first test after replacing the igniter, I tested
without reinstalling the Lint Duct Assembly/cover - image below -
or putting any clothes in dryer: igniter glowed, burner fired, and I watched until burner stopped.
Could running without cover have caused my current ‘burner fires only initially, but not as needed after cycle cools’ problem?

Common failure and symptom of these gas coils.279834 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

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The gas coils are failing under load. When they first start, the coils are nice and cool so they are operating properly but when they heat up, the coils weaken enough to not be able to operate the way they should. 279834 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

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New coils fixed it, everything works as it should. Tnx guys (or gals)