Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: LST7233AQ1
Main Symptom: Won’t turn on/off, doesn’t advance cycle
What happens & when: Replaced timer. Knob now advances but cycle doesn’t. Only way to turn it on/off is with power supply (cord plug). Stuck in one cycle when plugged in.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: replaced Washer Timer part#285938 (AP3605418)
Photos / video link:
It sounds like the timer is advancing but a specific component might have a grounded connection. Where in the cycle is the operation getting stuck, and does the cycle knob continue rotating all of the way around or does it stop just before the off position?
Hello Michael,
Thank you for the response.
If I rotate the knob while the machine is unplugged it starts on the cycle the knob is set at when plugged back in, but doesn’t proceed to the next operation even though the knob advances.
I just tried setting the knob on the final spin cycle before the Off position and plugged in the machine. Spin cycle started. The knob advanced to the off position and stopped advancing. The spin cycle continued until I unplugged the machine.
I suspect that the ground is in the lid switch. I have raised the lid during an agitation operation and while spinning, and neither stops the machine as it formerly would. And as before the push/pull on the knob itself does nothing to interrupt power.
WilliamM further advice please!!!
If you disconnect the wire harness from the lid switch, does the failure continue to occur?
Yes the failure continues to occur with the harness disconnected.
I think the lid switch is testing to be ok. With machine unplugged, continuity across harness plug with lid closed. No continuity with lid open. No resistance with lid closed. Resistance with lid open.
I found that the neutral and hot were swapped in the outlet. Correcting that solved the problem with the push/pull on the knob not turning the machine on/off. Why the on/off problem only occurred after 25 years of reliable service plugged into the reversed outlet is a question that doesn’t really need to be answered.
Now it will fill at the start of a cycle (to any of the 3 selected levels) but will not advance to agitate or spin. The timer advances the knob to the next Stop position and stops.
Thank you for your reply, William!
When the timer stops before agitation or spin, the timer motor can be tested for voltage to identify if the timer contacts may have been damaged by the reverse polarity. With a multimeter set to Volts AC, test for 120 Volts from the tan wire at terminal T to the white wire at terminal W. If there is not 120 Volts AC when the timer should be operating, and the lid switch is connected back up, it would be very likely that the timer contact to allow the timer motor to operate has been damaged.
I am getting 120v between the white wire and the tan wire(s).
If I start the cycle at the final rinse it adds water to the proper level. The timer gear starts turning again and clicks like it is signaling the next operation. It continues to turn and click through what should be the final agitate and spin but neither operation happens. The knob continues to the stop position and the machine shuts off.
I have been trying to attach a video but can’t convert my iphone video to a format that this window accepts.
I really do appreciate your continuing help with this problem.
If I hadn’t made the machine nearly inaccessible with built in shelving and cabinets I would have given up by now and gone looking for my next machine.
In the same cycle, when it stops, is there 120 Volts AC when testing from the terminal BU to the terminal W-BK, then from the terminal Y to terminal R? If there is not, the timer would likely be faulty. If there is voltage, there may be an issue with the capacitor or the motor. The capacitor can be tested for microfarads after discharging the capacitor and it should measure between 189-227 mfd. If the capacitor tests good, the issue would likely be with the motor windings.
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