Frozen ice maker fill tube

Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number:WRF736SDAM11
Main Symptom: frozen ice maker fill tube.
What happens & when: I have an WRF736SDAM11 that had originally had “E2” code. I replaced ice maker only to have recurring frozen ice maker lines. I then replaced heating elements as well as control board and still having frozen lines. All test codes return passing values and all parts came from APP.

Error Code (if any): None
Parts or tests already tried: ice maker, heating elements
Photos / video link:

Check the water valves to see if they are leaking through, and also check the household water pressure.

No leaks that I can see anywhere. Water throughout the house and at the dispenser seem strong. I replaced in-fridge filter during this process as well so that took about 4-5 pitchers full before returning to full strength. The only thing that slows it down is if the frozen ice feed line makes its way to the 2 way diverter valve, then it clogs the door water dispenser line as it leaves the valve. I can unplug the ice maker power plugs and wait a few hours and the line will thaw enough to make water at the door and the line to the ice maker no longer sounds like it is frozen but, no luck making ice. Coils under the fridge were also cleaned during the beginning of me trying to fix the problem.

Ok, after unplugging unit and letting it sit and removing ice maker assembly as a whole. I then checked the ohms on the heater elements and get around 5k ohms on each. I assembled unit and ran several tests (57)harvest = good, (58)heater/thermistor = 01 due to unit being out of fridge I assume, (56)IM error = E0, (37)IB thermistor = 01, (45)Ice Maker fill test = after this ran I stuck piece of paper towel in tray and it soaked the towel. Now I wait because last time it made one tray and harvested, by the time for next fill the IM fill tube was frozen. If I wait overnight, the water in the door will freeze. Again this is with all new parts (Ice Maker, main control board, front facia and fill tube heaters.

Based on the information and the parts replaced it still sounds like the water valve could be an issue, or the water pressure could also be an issue. The water valves are pressure closed, so if you have low pressure they may not close off every time. If the above does not solve the issue you may need to get a whirlpool tech to look at it.

Ok, I just ordered that valve. I hope this finally works.

The problem never presented itself as this in the beginning. It initially would make one or two trays then freeze the ice fill tube. All remaining “fills” would give me dime size ice chips that stuck to the fascia opening. Currently, the fill tube is free of ice and still has the ice chips, I thought that kept pointing to the heaters…. and so on…

Hi,

Based on your description and the parts you’ve already replaced, this is very likely not an ice maker or control board issue anymore.

If the fill tube continues freezing after replacing the ice maker, heater, and control board — and diagnostics are passing — the problem usually comes down to one of three things.

1. Slightly leaking water inlet valve (most common cause).
Even if it works during test mode, the valve may be allowing a very small amount of water to seep through when it’s supposed to be closed. That slow drip collects in the fill tube and eventually freezes.
I recommend checking for any seepage from the valve when the ice maker is idle. If there’s even minor dripping, replace the inlet valve.

2. Low water pressure.
If pressure is below ~35 psi, the fill cycle may be weak and leave residual water in the tube. Try removing the water filter temporarily to rule that out and verify proper supply pressure.

3. Door harness wiring issue.
On Whirlpool French door models like WRF736SDAM11, I’ve seen broken wires inside the left door hinge area. Even if the heater tests good, it may not be receiving proper voltage during the harvest cycle.

Since all test codes are passing and major components are new, I would personally start with inspecting or replacing the water inlet valve. In many similar cases I’ve handled, that was the root cause.

If you’d like, I can guide you step-by-step through verifying voltage to the heater and checking the valve.

— Shymon

Thank you for the recommendations.

  1. I replaced the vale with a new one as well as removed the fill tube from the ice maker to check for blockage. I then reinserted the tube in the valve, outside of the ice maker and ran test 45 for the fill tube. It does run water through it during this test , albeit not much during test, maybe an ounce or so. I did not notice any leaks during this test.
  2. I do not have a meter but with the filter in place it takes approximately 7 seconds to fill 1 cup at the door, while without the filter it takes just under 7 seconds.
  3. I checked the upper door hinge and there was no wires broken, loose or frayed.

After doing these, I ran test 57 and then 45 with no water sound filling the ice maker, just a charged relay. I then ran test 19 for the fill tube heater for about 1 minute or so and then retried test 45. This test produced the sound of water. Side note, I will on occasion hear the ice maker fill with water, maybe once or twice since this started getting fixed.

Unfortunately, at this point I have exhausted my wife’s patience as well as my wallet and have conceded the loss of hundreds of dollars in new parts and resorted back to using bagged ice :frowning:

Update: Ice maker just dumped ice from the previous testing and refilled water from the sound of it. Now we wait because it seems to eventually freeze the end of the fill tube and then no longer fills ice tray/small chips on fascia. I will generally get one harvest of ice after running all of the tests and then repeating the freezing.