Subject washer will only tumble the spin basket during the wash and spin cycles, but will not do high speed spin during spin.
Hope someone has seen this before, thanks in advance.
[quote=richappy;133822]Subject washer will only tumble the spin basket during the wash and spin cycles, but will not do high speed spin during spin.
Hope someone has seen this before, thanks in advance.[/quote]
I hate to resurrect old posts, but I have a very similar problem and need help.
I have been working on the same WFC7500VW0 front loader. The customer’s complaint was it only spins in the morning or on the first load. I ran it though two sets of self diagnostic tests and the washer spins just fine.
But when wet clothes are placed in the basket, and the washer is set on “spin” only it just sits there. Tumbling and draining over and over. I thought the cycle was taking forever, so I started timing it a 13 minutes left. Three minutes later it still said “13” minutes left and was still tumbling and draining. The door lock light comes on, and the door locks.
I’m wondering about the pressure switch. The test procedure in the manual looks like it was written by a 6 year old in another language. It has two blue wires to it and two brown. When blowing into the switch I get continuity on the two blue, but never on the two brown.
The wiring diagram is a joke, as is the picture of where to put your test leads on the pressure switch. Its a crying shame we can’t build anything in America anymore.
I’m down to the place where I think its either the pressure switch or the CCU. Any help would be appreciated.
I’ve noticed several people on the Internet have this problem, but no one seems to know whats causing it.
Monitor the current into the speed control board main two wire power connector, black and white wires. If well over 3 amp, the bearings are bad and causing the speed control board to shut down on overload.
I believe, based on your description, your problem would be in the pressure switch and or the switch wiring harness,to or from the control unit.
A continous tumble, drain, indicates the control thinks it is overfilled or in a suds detect mode,and not draining proper, all are ascociated to the water level switch or wiring.
Yes, it could be a improper input due to motor drag, bad bearings, but I don’t think I would start there.But it is an easy test with an amp meter.
Hope this will help
Would this happen even in test mode? (It spins like crazy in test mode, load or no load). This particular machine is barely over a year old. So bad bearing are unlikely, but as I have learned over the past 20 years of servicing appliances, nothing is impossible. Especially with the quality parts we are getting now. I’ll try the amp test when I go to work on it next time. Thanks!
[quote=Joe / APP Team;246075]I believe, based on your description, your problem would be in the pressure switch and or the switch wiring harness,to or from the control unit.
A continuous tumble, drain, indicates the control thinks it is overfilled or in a suds detect mode,and not draining proper, all are associated to the water level switch or wiring.
Yes, it could be a improper input due to motor drag, bad bearings, but I don’t think I would start there.But it is an easy test with an amp meter.
Hope this will help[/quote]
That’s the conclusion I came up with, especially after finding out that one of the brown wires never makes contact with anything in the p switch in either state. Like I said the job aid #[FONT=Arial]8178738 is kind of a joke. The wires are OK all the way back to the CCU so either its the pressure switch, CCU, or perhaps the motor. I ordered a P switch, but the closest one is in Texas and I’m in Nebraska, so its going to be Friday before it shows up.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]I’m pretty much in the middle of nowhere and this is the first one of these I’ve had the pleasure of working on. I think there is an excellent chance it will be the last one I willingly work on. What a pain to service. (its in a 5Th wheel bathroom in a tiny closet) I looked up the CCU and its $277 my cost so its probably the real problem. And people say I’m negative. ; ) 20 years of doing this will make you that way eventually. Thanks![/FONT]
Well, I got the new pressure switch and the bad news is it tests just like the old one. So the test procedure in the job aid is garbage. I’m going to put the old pressure switch back in and check the motor amperage. If that’s not it, its back to the drawing board. BTW the motor is like $600. Is that ridiculous or what. I did find out that the lady that owns it hasn’t been using HE detergent.
[quote=ThatGuy;246399]That’s the conclusion I came up with, especially after finding out that one of the brown wires never makes contact with anything in the p switch in either state. Like I said the job aid #[FONT=Arial]8178738 is kind of a joke. The wires are OK all the way back to the CCU so either its the pressure switch, CCU, or perhaps the motor. I ordered a P switch, but the closest one is in Texas and I’m in Nebraska, so its going to be Friday before it shows up.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]I’m pretty much in the middle of nowhere and this is the first one of these I’ve had the pleasure of working on. I think there is an excellent chance it will be the last one I willingly work on. What a pain to service. (its in a 5Th wheel bathroom in a tiny closet) I looked up the CCU and its $277 my cost so its probably the real problem. And people say I’m negative. ; ) 20 years of doing this will make you that way eventually. Thanks![/FONT][/quote]
Could you please supply me with the job aid Number or the wiring diagram number.
I still believe your problem is still, in the wiring harness or air dome hose.
In general :
Disconnect the air dome hose from the pressure switch.
Disconnect the pressure switch harness from the CCU(PR6).
Check the suds circuit (pin 1 to pin 2) on the harness connector. should be a open circuit.
Check pin 4 to pin 6 on the harness, should be a closed circuit(tub empty).
When you fill the tub(air dome attached) :
Pin 1 to pin 2 should remain open.
Pin 4 to pin 6 should be an open circuit.
Pin 4 to pin 5 should close as well as pin 4 to pin3.
Any other readings in the test(s) would mis inform the CCU, and the unit won’t spin (CCU thinks water is in the tub).
I can be more exact if you can supply the wiring diagram number or job aid number.
Went back on this washer a few days ago after ordering a new pressure switch. Didn’t even take the pressure switch out of its bag. Just tested it through the bag and found it tested exactly the same as the old switch. That tells me that the “test” procedure in the job aid [FONT=Arial]8178738 (see post no.6) is a bad joke. This same job aid has almost nothing to say about why the washer would have trouble spinning.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]I reassembled the washer checked the amperage to the motor. It would spike briefly over 3 amps when it went into high speed spin, but never really exceeded 3 amps. I checked every connection and wire that I could see. All seemed OK. Ran it through the tests and through the spin only cycle. Worked perfectly without clothes. I asked the customer about overloading and soap use. Apparently they have been using regular soap and the husband indicated that the wife likes to overload it.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]I told them to use only HE soap and to cut down the size of the loads. It might have been a loose connection, the husband had taken it apart several times before I worked on it. So its hard to say now.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]Thanks for all the help guys! TG[/FONT]
For the benefit of others with this problem I had the same exact situation, pressure switch and all. So I ended up just removing all the wiring plugs from the machine control board and re-installing them. Washer spun out perfectly, so it was a poor wiring connection somewhere in that board.
[QUOTE=sqott;877710]For the benefit of others with this problem I had the same exact situation, pressure switch and all. So I ended up just removing all the wiring plugs from the machine control board and re-installing them. Washer spun out perfectly, so it was a poor wiring connection somewhere in that board.[/QUOTE]
Sqott,
Great !!!,
Corroded contacts and loose connections can be a bit frustarting, but once you’ve got them cleaned and reattached, you’re usually alright for quite a while.
Here’s Hoping, Good Luck
This just happened to me - unplug the washer, take the bottom front panel off (3 screws), unscrew the filter, and clean it. Mine had coins, metal, and plastic inside. They were decaying and plugging it up. I took it all out (use a cup to bail out the water as it will leak), clean it all up, and voila - it spins like new!
I think the water sitting inside and the rotting material created a terrible smell also that was affecting the cleanliness of our laundry.
Also, at the tube on the back for the drain, I found a couple of pieces of plastic inside it when I removed the hose.
With all of that removed, the machine works like new!
Try this way before you look at difficult parts to repair like motors or even belts, particularly if the machine agitates and/or spins on an empty load.
This was actually a lot harder to find than I thought it would be online, as other articles had me taking the back off the machine and doing a lot of work I didn’t need to do in the end, so start with the filter - good luck!!!
Had the same issue as others with the Whirlpool Washer WFC7500VW2 that would not go into the high speed spin and clothes came out wet. Ran diagnostic tests and everything looked fine. The problem was intermittent, spin would sometimes work. My filter was clean.
Ended up taking off the ECO valve and drain line to the pump. Had a couple masks caught in the valve. The masks slowed the draining of the drum causing the machine to sense water in the drum so would not spin. Believe it was intermittent since the masks could move around allowing for better drainage at times. The masks slipped between the space between the rubber and stainless drum.
I had to remove the dryer, but could remove the top and front panel without removing washer.
This drain clog post saved us a service call. Maytag 8100 wouldn’t fully spin up. Stuck at 12 min on the drain and spin cycle. Washed and seemingly rinsed fine. Two quarters were laying flat in the drain filter - I suspect during spin up the water could not be pump out fast enough and an out of balance error occurred. I may not have read the fault codes correctly- but I didn’t seem to have an codes and the service manual doesn’t appear to indicate there is a code to catch this.
Is there a code for this?
Cheers,
Mark
[quote=markehmark;918916]This just happened to me - unplug the washer, take the bottom front panel off (3 screws), unscrew the filter, and clean it. Mine had coins, metal, and plastic inside. They were decaying and plugging it up. I took it all out (use a cup to bail out the water as it will leak), clean it all up, and voila - it spins like new!
I think the water sitting inside and the rotting material created a terrible smell also that was affecting the cleanliness of our laundry.
Also, at the tube on the back for the drain, I found a couple of pieces of plastic inside it when I removed the hose.
With all of that removed, the machine works like new!
Try this way before you look at difficult parts to repair like motors or even belts, particularly if the machine agitates and/or spins on an empty load.
This was actually a lot harder to find than I thought it would be online, as other articles had me taking the back off the machine and doing a lot of work I didn’t need to do in the end, so start with the filter - good luck!!![/quote]
I have a washer (same model, Whirlpool WFC7500VW0) that recently stopped doing the high speed spin in the normal cycles. In the diagnostic mode though, it was doing the spin fine so I was pretty sure it wasn’t a mechanical issue.
I opened up the front and did the pressure sensor test with the multimeter, and I could only get the blue pair/safe level to 0Ω, not the brown pair/low level per the service manual. I was going to order another one, before reading the previous comments on this thread.
I also cleaned out the drain pump filter and the drain pipes while I had the front panel open.
So between re-plugging in the pressure sensor and cleaning the drain, it got the spin working again! Crossing my fingers hoping it will continue to work.
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who left their previous experiences in the thread.
Hi,
Thanks for sharing what you’ve tried to resolve the failure to enter high speed spin issue for the WFC7500VW0.
I have the same issue - towards the end of the cycle, washer enters a repeated cycle of running the drain pump and tumbling the drum at low speed - but never kicks into high speed spin, even though, as far as I can tell, the water has been pumped out. Countdown timer gets stalled (seems to be around 13 minute mark on drain / spin and 8 minute mark on normal) and stays at that time for multiple minutes while the washer labours away trying to do its thing. Then the timer finally moves on, and before the time completely elapses, it abruptly goes to END leaving sopping wet clothes in the drum.
-In diagnostic mode, the drum spins up like crazy.
-I’ve checked the drain trap, verified free motion of the pump impeller, and removed, checked and reinstalled the drum to pump hose and there are no obstructions
-There is good flow from the drain hose when pumping
-I removed the pressure sensor vessel and cleared it out (there was some scale inside but hardly jam packed)
-I checked the pressure sensor with a multimeter and it tests fine (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGpxq7lUxR4&ab_channel=Zbip57)
-Pressure hose seems in good shape and reconnected
-No error codes showing
Next, I will try cleaning and reconnecting the connections at the control boards.
Meanwhile, I have a few questions that I’m hoping someone can shed some light on:
-In reassembling the drain hose, I’m not 100% sure I’ve assembled the ECO ball correctly - there is a separate sort of rubber flange that is sort of loose floating in the connection (https://www.pwslaundry.com/i-10423638-whirlpool-w10193115-washer-nut-eco-flange.html) - does this go on top (between the ball and the drum) or underneath (between the ball and the pump)? Further, can anyone explain to me what the purpose of this ECO ball is and how it works? Is it supposed to prevent backflow into the drum when the pump is working?
-Having tentatively ruled out drainage, pump and pressure switch issues, I’m wondering about other possibilities. One possibility I’m wondering about is whether the washer considers the load to be unbalanced. Does anyone know how it makes that determination? Is it monitoring the current draw of the motor as it spins the drum? Or is there a sensor built into the control board that detects excessive motion of the machine? Some other way? I’m wondering whether a worn drum bearing might be messing with the load detection and leading the washer to think the load is still waterlogged or unbalanced. I know it’s looking to the pressure sensor for water level but I wonder if it’s also checking the drum load. It’s a well used machine we inherited from relatives, so I think it’s had some wear and tear.
-Does anyone know how “suds detection” works for this machine? Is that also via the pressure sensor?
Thanks for your help.
Alex