Front Load Dryer Maytag Maxima MED6000XW2 - Shuts off mid-cycle

Dryer Repair
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1

Roughly two months ago, my dryer started shutting off before the cycle was complete. Sometimes it would restart on it’s own after waiting 10-15 minutes, sometimes it would not. Sometimes the timer would continue counting down even though it wasn’t spinning/drying. I couldn’t manually restart it without waiting the same 10-15 minutes either.

The only trouble code displaying in diagnostic mode was F04E04, which indicates insufficient power. I confirmed the outlet was providing the correct voltage and inspected the breaker, outlet, power cord, and terminal block, and found nothing abnormal. I Googled and asked ChatGPT and Gemini, no clear path forward for that trouble code.

I opened up the whole unit and cleaned out all of the built up lint, checked the exhaust tube even though I clean that yearly, and replaced the thermal cut off/thermal fuse, because the local repair shop said that was a common fix for most issues. No change.

I found a brand new control board for $50 so I decided to throw that in there. No change.

Then I decided to Google how to fix an overheating dryer, which produced a ton of good resources. I followed testing guides and determined my cycling thermostat was opening at far too high a temperature, but just to be sure I also replaced the thermistor. No change.

At this point I’ve cleaned the whole unit and replaced the cycling/high limit thermostat, thermal cut off, thermistor, and thermal fuse.

Next, I decide to replace the heating element, and found that the old one was cracked and a portion of the metal plate in-between the coils was bent and extremely close to the coil. I figured that when it heated up, the coil may be grounding out on the metal plate and shutting off the machine; and, that once it cooled off and was no longer contacting the plate, I could restart it.

But, even with the new element. No change.

I have unloaded the parts cannon on this thing, inspected the unit inside and out, and yet it continues to shut off at least twice during a cycle and I can’t manually restart it for at least 10 minutes. The F04E04 code went away for a little while but is present again now.

Anyone have any ideas before I go dryer shopping?

Thank you

2

Tech sheet that I am sure you have.https://s3.amazonaws.com/sm-backend-production-attachments/techsheet-w10420007-reva.pdf

3

Thank you. I do have that. It was useful for a few things but doesn’t seem to have a clear solution to this issue.

4

Make sure the polarity on element wires that are correct to relay

on the board on the relay K2 Just like in this screen shot. Red at bottom.

Screenshot 2025-09-07 at 11.07.59 AM
Screenshot 2025-09-07 at 11.07.59 AM1814×968 94.5 KB

5

Also motor circuit: Black to P9-2

Screenshot 2025-09-07 at 11.26.18 AM
Screenshot 2025-09-07 at 11.26.18 AM2152×442 81.8 KB

6

P9 is probably a molex plug so you probably could not wire that wrong.These dryers are polarity sensitive.

7

Thanks, I double checked both of those connections and they are correct. I took pictures of the factory wiring the first time I opened it up so I’m (95%) confident I have reconnected things as they were.

1 Like
8

When the unit starts back up on its own, did it end a cycle and start back up or was the timer counting down and the drum just started rotating again? Also, which specific control was replaced?

9

The timer was counting down and the drum just started rotating again.

Do you mean which specific control board? If so, it was Maytag/Whirlpool part #WPW10378252 which is the main board you see after removing the top cover from the dryer. I didn’t see any other control boards in the unit but I could be missing one.

10

It sounds like the overload protector built into the motor is tripping. Have you noticed if the laundry was taking longer to dry before this started?

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I can’t say that I noticed the dryer taking any longer to effectively dry prior to this issue starting. It certainly takes longer now because of having to restart it.

I have no way to quantify before vs after but I also think it could be running hotter than it was and shutting off due to overheating. But, if so I would expect a different fault code.

I am going to pull the back panel off, run it until it stops, and then check to see if either the thermal cut off or cycling thermostat have opened.

Can you recommend any way to verify if the overload protector built into the motor is tripping?

12

The only way the control can tell if L2 is present is if voltage is passing through the element. But if the motor isn’t running, L2 never makes it through to the element—because the motor’s rotation is what controls that L2 feed.

Here’s a way to check if the motor is the issue:

  1. With the unit powered on but the motor stopped, access the main control.

  2. Set your multimeter to VAC.

  3. Test between the light blue wire at P9 pin 1 and the white wire at P8 pin 3.

  • If you see 120 VAC, the control is sending voltage to the motor. The only things that could block it are the thermal fuse or the belt switch. Since both of those are “all-or-nothing” parts and your motor does run sometimes, they’re not the culprit.

  • If voltage is there but the motor won’t run until the dryer cools down, then the motor’s internal overload is tripping. That can be caused by a worn motor or even a big gap in a felt seal letting heat escape and overworking it.

Here’s the link to the motor if it turns out to be the cause: WPW10508324 Drive Motor | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

13

I ran it twice on timed dry for 20 minutes, air only. It completed both cycles without issue; does this not eliminate the motor as the point of failure? I have yet to perform the testing procedure you outlined.

One was ran empty and the other with a load of dry clothes. I didn’t run it with wet clothes which I realize now means the motor was not under full load.

14

To really pin down where the failure is happening, the dryer needs to be tested under a normal load, like we talked about earlier. Running it that way helps track down exactly which direction in the circuit the problem is coming from.