I have a frigidaire convection wall oven model cGEB27S7CS1
Yesterday the convection did not work properly and I tried conventional bake and about the same happened. The broil seems to work fine.
fuses seemed ookay visually.
I turned the breaker off …then back on. No change
The bottom element does not get hot. It looks visually ok
What to do?
[quote=jlarocque;575470]I have a frigidaire convection wall oven model cGEB27S7CS1
Yesterday the convection did not work properly and I tried conventional bake and about the same happened. The broil seems to work fine.
fuses seemed ookay visually.
I turned the breaker off …then back on. No change
The bottom element does not get hot. It looks visually ok
What to do?[/quote]
J,
Does the lower bake element come on and heat in a “regular bake” cycle ?
The convection element is located behind the fan blade cover in the center back of the oven cavity. You may need to remove the back wall panel(4, 1/4 in. head screws) and check that element for damage and operation(red glow) in the "convect bake " selection with the door closed.
The lower element is always cool under the regular bake cycle. NO heat
I did verify the convection element…No heat or no red glow .
No apparent damage on both elements.
[quote=jlarocque;575698]The lower element is always cool under the regular bake cycle. NO heat
I did verify the convection element…No heat or no red glow .
No apparent damage on both elements.[/quote]
J,
We’re going to need to check the voltage to both elements, with a multimeter,
and work our way back to the faulty relay, wire, or clock.
Here’s some multimeter usage information, should you need it :
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
You’ll be up ans running in no time.
I checked the three fuses. No resistance showing
I checked the bottom element showed 24.2ohm
Top element is ok and working fine its HOT:mad:
it alse implies 240 V goes in
Lamp is working
How do I check for relays one by one.
[quote=jlarocque;576716]I checked the three fuses. No resistance showing
I checked the bottom element showed 24.2ohm
Top element is ok and working fine its HOT:mad:
it alse implies 240 V goes in
Lamp is working
How do I check for relays one by one.[/quote]
J,
At this point you need to check the power in and power out of the relay
Acees the relay , label and remove the brown and Blue wires from the terminals.
*** This is a “live” 120 VAC voltage test, be careful. ***
Program a bake cycle and temperature,
At the yellow wire on the “C” terminal on the relay, you should read 120 VAC to chassis ground. No voltage there, would indicate a broken wire or faulty bake relay on the clock.
Check for 120 VAC from the “N/C” terminal of the relay to chassis ground. No voltage would indicate a bad relay.
Program a convect bake cycle and temperature
Recheck for 120 VAC on the yellow wire at the “C” terminal on the relayto chassis ground. No voltage, same indication as previous test.
Check for 120 VAC on the “N/O” terminal of the relay to chassis ground, No voltage would indicate a failed relay.
Thanks and Good Luck,
I am back,…
Where exactly is this switch; just want to make certain.
[quote=jlarocque;607146]I am back,…
Where exactly is this switch; just want to make certain.[/quote]
J,
Both relays should be mounted to the bracket assembly, holding the control / ERC, behind the decorator keypad/control panel assembly.
They don’t really look like a “switch” , More like a box.
I have disconnected the two blue wires and the brown wire on the relay. Leaving only the black connected.
I saw three relays side by side. 1) the one I dicsonnected the wires. 2) One with two orange and black and white wires. seems to be the convection relay and 3) one with two black and red and white wires. Seems to be the lamp relay.
I could not see the relay with the yellow, black brown and red connection as I presume it is in the back of the oven by the connections to the elements? right?
I have turned on the cycles as per your previous post reply. Tested the voltage at the yellow terminal up on the electronic panel and connected to a red wire the other end of the voltmeter and got 3.7 volts or something similar. I get 0V when turned off.
I get the same, or about voltages for all the steps of the test.!!!
I never read 120V or 240V…Strange yet the broil elements comes on nice!
I understand it enough to say it is not working as per plan. LOL:confused:
[QUOTE=jlarocque;623615]I have disconnected the two blue wires and the brown wire on the relay. Leaving only the black connected.
I saw three relays side by side. 1) the one I dicsonnected the wires. 2) One with two orange and black and white wires. seems to be the convection relay and 3) one with two black and red and white wires. Seems to be the lamp relay.
I could not see the relay with the yellow, black brown and red connection as I presume it is in the back of the oven by the connections to the elements? right?
I have turned on the cycles as per your previous post reply. Tested the voltage at the yellow terminal up on the electronic panel and connected to a red wire the other end of the voltmeter and got 3.7 volts or something similar. I get 0V when turned off.
I get the same, or about voltages for all the steps of the test.!!!
I never read 120V or 240V…Strange yet the broil elements comes on nice!
I understand it enough to say it is not working as per plan. LOL:confused:[/QUOTE]
I refer to this diagram as a guide. Is it right?
http://www.youserguide.com/mediawiki/images/2/2b/Electrolux_318046209-001.png
[quote=jlarocque;623618]I refer to this diagram as a guide. Is it right?
http://www.youserguide.com/mediawiki/images/2/2b/Electrolux_318046209-001.png[/quote]
Yes, based on the available information, this is the general wiring diagram for the model number supplied.
We know you have L2 through the thermal circuit breaker to the elements, because you said the broil works, unless there’s a broken wire between the broil element and the bake/convect elements in the back of the oven.
OK, now at the ERC/Control when you program a bake cycle There should be 120 VAC out to the relay, from the BA/E7 terminal to chassis ground.
At the convection/bake relay, there should be 120 vac at the “C” terminal on the yellow wire, and there should be 120 vac out to the element on the “NC” terminal with the black wire disconnected at the relay.
When you select the convection option, you’ll have the 120 vac out on the BA/E7 terminal at the ERC . You’ll have the 120 vac at the “C” terminal on the relay. but the relay coil will energize and 120 vac will exit the relay on the “NO” terminal on the brown wire to the convect element.
Be careful, these are “live voltage” tests, and remember to remove the BK-1 and BR-1 wires from the relay to test the power out of the relay to the element(s).
I did the tests…got no volatage on any of them …I followed your previos instructions to disconnect the brown and blue wires on the relay.
I saw there is a 120V from the L2 and also when testing the black wire on the relay. But there seems to be nothing at the C and NC terminals :eek:.
There are three relays on the front panel. Ther relay with the yellow wire seems to be in the back; note that I tested following continuity on the front only based on the info from the wiring diagram.
From your earlier message it looks like a faulty relay!! Any other test before this is confirmed. There is a click noise I can hear on the convection cycle. Is this the switching of the elements to better distribute the heat?
JL
[quote=jlarocque;626645]I did the tests…got no volatage on any of them …I followed your previos instructions to disconnect the brown and blue wires on the relay.
I saw there is a 120V from the L2 and also when testing the black wire on the relay. But there seems to be nothing at the C and NC terminals :eek:.
There are three relays on the front panel. Ther relay with the yellow wire seems to be in the back; note that I tested following continuity on the front only based on the info from the wiring diagram.
From your earlier message it looks like a faulty relay!! Any other test before this is confirmed. There is a click noise I can hear on the convection cycle. Is this the switching of the elements to better distribute the heat?
JL[/quote]
JL,
I had a feeling the L2 wiring and power would be OK. It’s the L1 power out of the clock to the relay that’s the concern. There should be 120 VAC on the “C” terminal(ylw)wire, when the oven is programmed for a bake cycle. There should also be 120 VAC on the “BA”/E7 terminal on the clock/control, in the same instance.
No voltage on BA/E7 terminal equals a bad relay on the control/clock.
No voltage on the “C” terminal, but has VAC on BA/E7 equals a broken wire(ylw).
No voltage on “NC” or “NO” but voltage on “C” equals bad relay.
Remember, The L2 power source needs to be disconnected from the relay terminals, so we don’t get a false reading.
Ok I will make one last attempt at it…Xmas is coming and starting to badly need the oven:
can you give me a step-by-step detailed procedure please?
Also, is this relay …in the back of the oven? I see three on the main panel and none with yellow wires. The only yellow wire I see is the one on E7 and it goes to the back.
J
[quote=jlarocque;631507]Ok I will make one last attempt at it…Xmas is coming and starting to badly need the oven:
can you give me a step-by-step detailed procedure please?
Also, is this relay …in the back of the oven? I see three on the main panel and none with yellow wires. The only yellow wire I see is the one on E7 and it goes to the back.
J[/quote]
J,
You’re getting ahead of yourself.
Turn the power off, and remove the yellow wire from the E7 terminal on the clock. Reestablish power to the oven, program a bake cycle and temperature on the control. Wait a few seconds(10 to 20) then carefully check for 120 VAC from the E7 terminal on the control with one meter probe, and to chassis ground with the other meter probe. If you have the 120 VAC on this test, you will need to remove the oven from the wall and access the relay on the back. If you have no 120 VAC you will need to replace the control.
Test done and…no voltage on E7 but if I touch the Yellow wire to ground I do get 120V
Jay,
Great, We now know you need a control
We also know that, you have L2 (120 VAC) to the wall oven. That You have 120 VAC through the wiring to the bake element, through the element, through the relay and up to the control.
We also know that the K2 Bake relay on the control is the most likely issue, because we have no L1(120 VAC) at the BA/E7 terminal, and can’t complete the 220/240 VAC circuit, and the element(s) won’t heat.
You’ve done a great job, and should be “cooking” soon.
I phoned and part is not available. Where can I find IT?
Jay,
I lost track and should’ve checked availibility of the part.
You may want to contact the manufacturer WCI ( [COLOR=#000000]1-800-451-7007 USA ) and see if they have obsolete stock, or can reccomend a parts or service vendor who may have a part.[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]The manufacturer part number is 318010701, and will come in handy when you research the internet.[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]Sorry about this,[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]:o :o :o [/COLOR]
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