Since you’ve already replaced the ice maker (241798231), water inlet valve (242252702), and water filter on your Frigidaire FRS26KF6EMB, I wouldn’t recommend replacing any more parts just yet.
The fact that the replacement ice maker worked for several months before stopping again is an important clue. Also, your freezer temperature of slightly below 0°F is plenty cold enough for the ice maker to operate.
Let’s try a few checks to narrow down what’s happening.
Step 1: Check the ice maker and shutoff arm
First, make sure the metal shutoff arm is completely down in the ON position and moves freely.
Next, look inside the ice maker mold.
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Mold is empty: The ice maker may not be cycling or receiving water.
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Mold contains frozen cubes: The ice maker may not be harvesting the ice.
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Mold contains unfrozen water: We need to check the temperature directly at the ice maker.
Step 2: Manually test the ice maker harvest cycle
Your replacement ice maker, part 241798231, is a modular-style assembly. If it has clearly marked T and H test terminals, you may be able to initiate a manual harvest cycle.
Important: This test involves live 120-volt electricity and should only be performed by someone qualified to work safely around energized appliances.
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Unplug the refrigerator.
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Make sure the ice maker’s shutoff arm is down.
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Remove the plastic cover from the motor end of the ice maker.
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Look for test terminals marked T and H.
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If those terminals are clearly identified, a qualified technician can use a properly insulated jumper between T and H to initiate a harvest cycle.
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The jumper must be removed at the appropriate point early in the cycle so the ice maker can continue operating normally.
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Watch whether the ejector fingers rotate and whether the ice maker calls for water near the end of the cycle.
Do not bridge any terminals unless you’ve positively identified them. If your ice maker has a different motor design without T and H terminals, we’ll need to use the correct procedure for that version.
Step 3: What the harvest test tells us
If the ice maker cycles and fills with water:
That’s good news! It tells us the motor and water-fill circuit can operate. If it still won’t make ice automatically, we may have an issue with the ice maker’s internal thermostat or intermittent operation.
If the ice maker cycles but doesn’t fill with water:
We need to check whether the water inlet valve receives approximately 120 VAC during the fill portion of the cycle.
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If voltage is present but no water enters, check the water supply, valve operation, and tubing.
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If voltage is missing, investigate the ice maker’s fill contacts and wiring.
If the ice maker doesn’t cycle at all:
The next step is checking for approximately 120 VAC at the ice maker’s incoming hot and neutral connections.
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If power is present, the ice maker assembly may have an internal problem.
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If power is missing, we’ll need to trace the wiring and power supply.
These voltage checks should also be performed only by someone experienced with live electrical testing.
Step 4: A couple of quick questions
Before purchasing anything else, could you check these three things for me?
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Is the ice maker mold empty, or does it have frozen cubes sitting in it?
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Does the refrigerator’s water dispenser work normally?
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When you remove the ice maker’s front plastic cover, do you see terminals marked T and H, or just a large white plastic gear?
Those answers will help us determine whether we’re dealing with a harvest problem, water-fill problem, or electrical issue.
Since you’ve already replaced the major components, I’d really like to pinpoint the cause before having you spend any more money on parts.