I have a Frigidaire Front Loader FTFB4000FS1 washer. No matter what setting I have it on, whether drain/spin or any wash setting, the washer will run for 3 seconds and then stop. The lights on the control board stay lit, it seems like something is telling the washer to stop. I have just put in a NEW control panel board & door lock and I still get the same results. When i start the drain/spin cycle it will drain fine I can hear the water draining freely. When I start the normal. heavy, quick, etc wash setting it will start to fill the washer fine. However, it still turns off after around 3 seconds every time. I do not have a timer setting so I believe I can rule that out? When I tested the Ohms on the old door lock it read 1326 Ohms which led me to believe it was bad. However, on the new one it is reading 1206 Ohms so doesn’t make much sense to me now. I’m not sure if I should even at this point replace the motor control board and pump because I honestly don’t think they are bad. Is there documentation or can somone tell me what the resistance is on the motor control board and pump so I can see hows those fair? Does the pressure switch at the top right of the machine control the washer at that point? I thought the washer would not even start to fill if the switch was bad, but the drain cycle wouldn’t be stopping also because of the pressure switch. I’ve said alot, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
The tech sheet inside the lower service panel should show you how to generate and interpret stored error codes and how to do some diagnostics.
Seems like you have done the right thing, so this is kind of a mystery, but may you can get some answer with the tech notes.
I am having the same problem, was Wonder if you found the root to this problem? Havind the same problem myself with a similar machine is a Frigidaire front load sane model as yours and it puts water in for about 3 seconds then stops, door switch is fine control board is fine and pump is fine, tries to drain but power to the pump cuts on and off..?
Same problem here, I replaced the control board, Door lock, and inlet valve..same symptom..3 seconds and shuts off, on both fill and drain…a few minutes later it tries again, it will do this 3 times then nothing, just the hum of the door lock, but to quote the original thread “it seems like something is telling the washer to stop”…this is an old thread I hope you have had time to figure this out…
I hope someone comes up saying they have found something because this is a common problem for this Frigidaire front load washer about 3 years old. It looks and someone also told me it could be a short down in the back by the motor there could be a broken wire, I looked myself and there it was a brokend blue wire down by the motor control, I did repaired the wire but still didn’t fixed the problem I will keep looking to see if there might be another broken wire.
I see this is an old post but maybe it can still help someone. After replacing numerous parts on my 2 year old Frigidaire affinity. I took the back off and right next to the motor there is a black plug with 2 blue wires going into it. UNPLUG YOUR WASHER. One of the wires looked as if it had been kinked. There was a small white spot where the plastic had stretched. I unplugged the connector and pulled on the wire and sure enough the casing broke in half. The wire had broken inside the casing. You can repair this with a butt connector, be sure to tape up the butt connector after the repair. Plug the connector back in. And I’ll bet your washer will work again. Good luck
Was anyone able to fix this problem? Any information would be appreciated.
I see this is an old post but maybe it can still help someone. After replacing numerous parts on my 2 year old Frigidaire affinity. I took the back off and right next to the motor there is a black plug with 2 blue wires going into it. UNPLUG YOUR WASHER. One of the wires looked as if it had been kinked. There was a small white spot where the plastic had stretched. I unplugged the connector and pulled on the wire and sure enough the casing broke in half. The wire had broken inside the casing. You can repair this with a butt connector, be sure to tape up the butt connector after the repair. Plug the connector back in. And I’ll bet your washer will work again. Good luck
I took the back cover off and didn’t see any broken or kinked wires. The washer turns on for a few seconds then stops in the middle of the cycle. It doesn’t matter what setting is chosen. The washer begins to fill with water and starts to spin so it doesn’t seem like a water or motor issue. It doesn’t seem like a broken wire but we replaced the control board and water inlet valve like the recommendations for the error code suggested.
It is a kinked blue wire at the zip tie. Remove the back panel and locate the blue wires leading to the motor at the lower right side. Clip the zip ties, and you will see a kink in one. Cut at the kink and use a butt connector to reconnect. Wrap with electrical tape and secure it away from the motor with another zip tie but don’t tie it too tight or it will happen again. Good luck.
Having the same problem… Replaced door latch, clipped and redid the blue wire, inlet valves seem fine, pump works perfectly, no bad bearings…Stumped and about to go for a control board. Any help is appreciated.
I’m having the same issue. Break out the trobleshooting guide. Run the diagnostic test and see what error code comes back. If your drain pump starts up but quits after 3 seconds, I’ll bet you get error code 59.
Be advised, you can easily mistake the error for 95 if your washer has only LEDs. If so, read the bank of LEDs as the FIRST number and the start light as the SECOND number.
From there, break out a multimeter and check the items listed in step 12. Basically any code in the 50s will boil down to bearings, motor (or wiring to it but you already covered that) or motor speed control board. Good luck!
I have a Kenmore front load washer 417 series and it also starts to fill, stops, fills, stops, and then the start button blinks. After opening and closing and pressing start numerous times, it clicks and the start button will blink rapidly. A couple slams later, the washer will start. If I do another wash immediately after the cycle completes, it will work normally.
If I leave the washer for 10 minutes after the cycle completes, I get the same start stop.
Replace pressure switch, replaced main control board, and door switch. Cleaned the drain and blew through the pressure switch hose. Checked wires.
A mystery since once I get it started, it goes through the cycle completely.
Any other thoughts?
@Waterfront, Read my post. In my case it was the silliest thing. After 15 years of faithful service a connector came loose. It was the main to motor board cable connector.
Unplug the washer and remove the motor control module. Check seating on the connectors. FYI they’re card edge like the old school video game cartidges. Also like the old school cartridges the can be rehabbed. Get some emery boards, alcohol, swabs, silicone grease and silicone caulking.
Clean the contacts on the board with alcohol and swab. GENTLY sand them with the beige side of the Emery board. Clean again with alcohol and swab. Seal with silicone grease. Bond the connector in place with a dollup of caulking on both (left and right) sides. Doing the same for the motor connector wouldn’t hurt, that’s what I did. It will take you an afternoon but can’t hurt.
BTW, you can also do that on the door switch latch module. Its super easy. For the silver contact points I use the beige side of the Emery board as I described before. For the brass connections I use the brown side and bear down to remove the oxidation. Goop with silicone grease and reassemble.
I know this is an old post, but helped me out today. The problem was exactly as other posters stated. I checked what laundryman posted and low and behold one of the blue wires was kinked in half. I cut it spliced it back together and now laundry machine is back up and running. Thanks again.
In my case what happened was a whole group of wires in a plastic clip came off the main board. I simply pushed it snug.