The last few months our side by side has been making a horrible loud noise, coming from the freezer. My husband took the freezer panel apart, and noticed that ice had completly jammed the fan that cools everything. Got all the ice out, and it was fine for months. Over the last 2 weeks, it has been happening every few days. Again, hubby takes the panel off, and removes all the ice built up on the fan, and its ok again. What is causing this, and can it be repaired? The fridge is only a few years old, and we paid a lot for it, and cannot afford another one!
Here are parts for this series, use the number 7 (Last digit) your number nine is probably too new for parts to come up on this system.
But if ordering be sure to provide the full model number as the parts people have access to more info that the on-line users.
Replacement parts for FRS26KF6EW9 models | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is the tech sheet for this unit, it has the info on how to force a defrost cycle.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Anderson/240389629.pdf
Sounds like you may have a defrost problem.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle (see the tech sheet) When the fans and compressor turn off, you are in a defrost cycle.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the Adaptive Defrost Board (Item 23 in Section 5) needs replacing.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 14 in Section 6) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 21 in Section 6) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
Thank you so much. I am so irritated that this fridge is so new and we are having so many problems with it. We had an old plain top freezer, bottom fridge, and no problems for years. Got this one for the stupid ice maker 
Thanks again, I will have my hubby check it all tonite when he gets home, and let you know whats up.
Amanda