I got a beautiful double oven off craigslist. Upper oven works great. The stove top works great. The lower oven reaches about 150 degrees after 30 minutes.
I opened it up and tested the resistance of the heating elements. Both elements were 16-20 ohms.
There is a white light (or spark) on the control board that is mounted to the lower left when viewing from behind. It sparks about every 10-20 seconds and is clicking like a relay.
I need help determining if it is a bad sensor, bad board, or bad clock board. After some research I can’t find out definitely which to order and they are all a bit pricey to just guess.
In closer inspection, it’s hard to say if it is sparking or lighting up. Maybe it’s normal but ironically, this is from the upper oven which heats fine. The lower oven does not have the sparking when it tries to heat. Maybe this is normal since it is clicking from bake to broil during the preheat…
Thoughts? What should I be checking first to diagnose the no heat issue?
The sparking is coming from inside the relay. Its bright enough to see through the relay case. I would guess the relays are pretty burnt inside to arc that bad. Here is the wiring diagram.
[QUOTE=ThatGuy;911135]The sparking is coming from inside the relay. Its bright enough to see through the relay case. I would guess the relays are pretty burnt inside to arc that bad. Here is the wiring diagram.
I would check at the board, for power to the lower oven bake element. I’ll bet you have a bad relay.[/QUOTE]
Seems to have 110V coming out to each of the elements…
I realized I was testing the resistance of the broil heat element, not the bake element. The lower bake element has resistance of 23 ohms. The convection element has 43 ohms resistance.
[QUOTE=RentAHubby;911142]Seems to have 110V coming out to each of the elements…
I realized I was testing the resistance of the broil heat element, not the bake element. The lower bake element has resistance of 23 ohms. The convection element has 43 ohms resistance.[/QUOTE]
So after much research and learning and testing and digging into my brain for past electrical knowledge, I think I’m figuring things out.
So, I was confused because I was getting voltage to the element but no heat. If I measure voltage from either side of the element to neutral, I get 119V. But if I measure across the two, I’m not getting 220V+, I get zero. I tested the upper oven heating element and I did get about 250V at the top when on but the bottom, when powered on gets only 120V to neutral but nothing if measured from L1 to L2 across the element itself. So I’m guessing one side is hot and the other is not kicking on when power is requested.
So does this mean the board is bad? or one of the relays on the board? I’ve soldered on motherboards and TV power supplies before to repair them. Is it realistic to replace just the relays on the board or do I just order and entire new board? They are pretty pricey so I want to make sure i get it right!
[quote=ThatGuy;911135]The sparking is coming from inside the relay. Its bright enough to see through the relay case. I would guess the relays are pretty burnt inside to arc that bad. Here is the wiring diagram.
So, I ended up ordering a new relay board for the lower oven elements.
I still am having the no heat issue.
I still only get 120V to ground on either side of the broil or bake elements. And I do not get 250V if read from one side to the other of the elements.
What does this mean? Does this mean my problem is actually the clock control board with all wires and buttons for the display? Is there any simple way of knowing on this oven without blindly replacing $150 boards?
So, I’ve replaced the relay board for the lower oven and the clock control board as per recomendations on the forums. I still have no heat on the lower oven on bake or broil.
Can someone help me get this figured out? I’ve already put in over $200 and still same issue present! Help would be greatly appreciated.
Power comes from the relay board via terminal P 10 /yellow 34 to the bake element. Through the bake element to Y 34 to a connection with wire B/W 7.
The broil element gets power from the relay board on terminal P 8 /blue 7 to the broil element then through blue 7 to the same common wire as the bake element.
The common wire is B/W 7 that goes to a thermal fuse then by BR/W 7 to terminal P 2 .
Testing voltage across terminals P2 and P10 while in bake mode should show 240 to 220 volts.
Testing voltage across terminals P2 and P8 while in broil mode should show 240 to 220 volts.
If the power is disconnected, you should get an ohm reading while testing from P2 and P10 and from P2 and P6. From the relay board through either element back up to the relay board.
So I tested all these areas and have found the problem! Hurray!
I tested voltage between the terminals suggested and had voltage. But when I tested resistance between the terminals there wasn’t any.
Thought that was weird to have voltage but not resistance. I tested voltage on both sides of the thermal switch/fuse? and it seemed to be present but no resistance thru that switch. I pushed the reset button and nothing changed.
I unscrewed the switch and it made a noticable pop/click sound and then it was good to go. I put the switch back on and the oven seems to be heating.
I am getting 240V to both sides of the heat elements now, finally.
LAST QUESTION: What causes this little fuse/switch to pop? I had tried pushing the reset before but nothing seemed to change. Should I replace it? Is it likely bad? Or could a single event caused it to trip?
