The part number for the dual switch kit made by Frigidaire as a replacement for this range is 903057-9010 which has been changed later to 318078200 and is Appliance Parts Pros part number AP3775555.
Gene.[/quote]
I have the part I need a picture to show me how to place the wires.
I have a Kenmore 790.46803-992 Range. I just changed the infinite switch using the 903057-9010 Kit. I’m not a service technician, so don’t take this as gospel.
On the back of the original switch, there should be numbers 1 through 6. Write down the color wire and number. For example:
2-Black
3-Red
4-Black (there were two back wires. I called this shiny black )
5-Purple.
N- Brown and Pink
On the kit documentation there is a mapping from Old connections to New Connections.
2-L1
3-H1
4-H2
5-P
N - L2 and L2b.
On the new part, you will see the labels next to the pins. From here just translate the colors to the pins.
For example:
P = Purple
H2 = shiny Black
L1 - Black
L2 - Brown
L2b - Pink
H1-Red
Then mount the switch, say a little prayer and turn on the power to give it a test.
Gene, hello I am about to order the same part for my frigidaire electric cooktop model # FEC30S6HBA. The dual burner has gone out, no matter were you turn it, it no longer turns on. I am about to order the part but I have a question. The hot surface light is now on and won’t turn off. My question is the following, will replacing the burner switch fix the hot furnace light being on problem or is this maybe part of another problem?
I’m no expert on the topic. I can tell you that when I replaced the switch, the light went out on my cooktop, so I would assume it would do the same for you.
Installed the new replacement part from APP part AP3775555 and worked fine and the HOT SURFACE LIGHT problem is now gone. The light turns off after the burner goes cool. My wife no longer has to go under to plug in or unplug the glass top stove. She is much happier now.
Just a note and Gene can correct me here. The wiring instructions on the APP part AP3775555 were sufficient but what I did notice was that ON THE OLD BLACK SWITCH (see picture below) is that there are TWO sets of wires that go to the “N” connection. The PINK wires and the RED wire.
The confusing part is: Is that on the replacement switch you have an (L2) connection with one pin and an (L2B) connection with two pins to connect wires too.
Option 1: On the new switch I was not sure if to place the PINK and RED wires side by side on the (L2B) connection.
OR
Option 2: Place the pink wire on the (L2) connection and the red on the (L2B) connection or vice a versa but they would not be side by side as they were on the old switch (N) connection.
I reasoned with common sense and went with option 1 and placed them side by side on the (L2B) pins since I figured that they were together on the old (N) connection and not separate. After a prayer I turned it on and it worked just fine.
All the other wires are clear cut based on the wiring instructions that come with the part. What would of helped on the new wiring instructions is something that notes something like (L2) = DO NOT CONNECT WIRE HERE as there are a couple of pins that stay free when you are done.
If I get a chance I will go back under tonight and post a picture of the new part and how the wires were connected.
Once last comment after installing the part I can see now, when you are CLEANING the glass top surface with the knobs taken off and with the special creams made for cleaning them, windex or just plain old soap and water, if YOUR NOT CAREFUL, these liquids can make their way down onto the top of the switch and damage them.
I wish that the rubber bushing that goes below the knob had a tighter gap around neck of the switch itself to keep liquids and debree out.
If you are a a very clean individual, and go happy with the liquids, then just be careful. My wife removes the knobs to clean the glass top and she is not happy until she gets a mirror shine on the glass top. At $150+ a part I will need to stay on top of this.
[quote=TMcTx;66457]I got the new switch in, everything works good, except the hot surface light is on all the time. The top is cool and all the switches are all off.
Any ideas.
Tim[/quote]
Tim I replaced my switch with APP part AP3775555 and the HOT SURFACE LIGHT went off after the burner cooled down. Did you ever fix this? See my comments later in the thread about the issue I had with the “N” connection wires.
GSAM
I manage to take the pictures of the new switch not easy getting a clean shot.
Notice the following
Red and Pink wires are on the (L2B) connection TOGETHER
BLACK & Grey Wire = (L1)
YELLOW = (H1)
ORANGE = (H2)
BROWN Wires (2) of them = (P)
Pin (L2) is NOT USED
Pin between (L2) and (L1) no label, is not used
Pin between (L2b) and (H1) no label, is not used
This part was used to repair an FRIGIDAIRE FEC3026HSA / Electric Cooktop and may not represent the wiring for another cooktop.
[quote=gsam;172243]I manage to take the pictures of the new switch not easy getting a clean shot.
Notice the following
Red and Pink wires are on the (L2B) connection TOGETHER
BLACK & Grey Wire = (L1)
YELLOW = (H1)
ORANGE = (H2)
BROWN Wires (2) of them = (P)
Pin (L2) is NOT USED
Pin between (L2) and (L1) no label, is not used
Pin between (L2b) and (H1) no label, is not used
This part was used to repair an FRIGIDAIRE FEC3026HSA / Electric Cooktop and may not represent the wiring for another cooktop.
Good luck[/quote]
The exact same part was used to replace a Sears #903057-9010 part number, used your diagram and photos on a FRIGIDAIRE FEC30S6HBA. Great job, this is what the internet was invented for not all the other B.S.
Have read the thread, but I was wondering if replacing the switch will make the dual surface operate correctly. Right now no matter which way you turn on the burner (small numbers or large numbers), it always heats on the [COLOR=“Red”]full area of the burner[/COLOR]…otherwise everything works fine. Or is there something wrong in the element?