Brand:GE Monogram Model Number:ZISB420DRI Main Symptom:freezing fresh food What happens & when:
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Fresh food compartment freezing food in bottom half of compartment. Temp set @ 37/ freezer set @ zero. All 3 thermistors replaced, new damper & new main control board. Had tech out after 3 thermistors were changed. He didn’t test anything, said it’s either the damper or the main control board & immediately changed out the top damper. Waited 3 days, did not solve the issue. I changed out the main control board. 2 days later still getting temps of 20 to 25 degrees in fresh food compartment. Seems the fix is to just keep throwing parts @ it. Except that’s not fixing it. What next? I’ve also tried moving the freezer temp up to 5deg. That unfreezes the icemaker & it starts making ice. So that’s a plus. I can hear the top damper actuate with door open, door pin depressed.
The quick chill drawer can be removed to allow the damper to be checked. If it is in the open position even though the temperature is way below the set point, it may be possible that either the quick chill damper has failed in an open position, or there could be a wire harness failure.
I didn’t know if there was a way to try & make the quick cool drawer damper cycle, to be able to tell if it was opening & closing or stuck? If I take take the plastic grill @ the back off, like I did to replace the quick cool thermistor is the damper viewable or is it more extensive?
It may be possible to listen for it closing by selecting a different temperature range on the climate control interface. What setting is selected at this time?
We have had the quick chill drawer off since this problem started. I have randomly cycled it on to see if I could hear the quick chill damper opening or closing, with the drawer out. The quick chill fan prevents you from being able to hear the damper. I have the following parts “just in case” for this area that I have not installed: wr60x10116 qc seal damper, wr60x10063 air damper assembly. Not sure if this will be all that’s needed? I thought I read in the manuals you posted that there are 2 qc dampers??
Side note, the fresh food compartment freezing issue happened a few years back & replacing the 2 upper FF thermistors solved the issue. This time when the FF compartment freezing started, we were using the quick cool drawer & noticed that it suddenly started freezing the cans of sprite we had in the QC drawer. To the point that the cans exploded. @ that point we turned the drawer off, cleaned up everything, but the fresh food compartment freezing issue did not go away. I’ve replaced all 3 thermistors, the appliance tech replaced the upper FF damper, I then replaced the main control board. & here we are.
If the quick chill has been off the entire time, the failure would be in the damper failing to close. Since the main control has already been replaced, along with the fresh food and quick chill thermistors, the damper would be the only thing left. The entire quick chill would need to be disassembled to identify if it is one damper staying open or if it is both.
Are both of the quick chill dampers the same part #?
When you look @ the exploded parts view it only shows 1 damper.
When I took the QC compartment apart, the top damper was stuck open. Bottom 1 was closed. Replaced the top damper cycled the power, watched the top damper open & close. Put everything back together.
The fresh food freezing problem is better, but still persist. 29 degrees in the FF compartment VS 23 deg prior to replacing the QC top damper.
Questions are are both dampers the same part #? Why are there 2 dampers? Are they to operate in tandem or independently. Trying to understand the how & why?
The quick chill dampers are the same part number and they operate at the same time. This allows air flow to circulate through the quick chill section without having to use the fresh food return vent. Is the quick chill turned on or is it still off?
I’ve left the quick chill off since replacing the top damper, since we were still having to low of temps in the fresh food section.
When I replaced the top quick chill damper, it was stuck in the open position. The bottom damper was closed. @ that time the quick chill had been off for a couple of weeks as it had froze the can soft drinks that were in the quick chill drawer. Once I replaced the top damper & cycled the drawer on & off the top damper would cycle when I set it to quick chill, time & temp. I thought the bottom damper only operated on express thaw option. I’m still not quite right in the fresh food compartment temp wise, actual temp VS set temp is still not right. But it’s not freezing the food.
Just to make sure I have as much information as I can, what is being used to measure the temperature and where is it placed in the refrigerator? Also, just to make sure I have this correct, the main control, dampers, the quick chill thermistor, and the fresh food thermistors have been replaced. If you could place a thermometer into the freezer, let the doors stay closed for 30 minutes, turn off the power supply and access the main control, what resistance reading do you get when testing from the blue wire at pin 3 to the brown wire at pin 8 at the connection J1?
I’m using a refrigerator thermometer that I’m sitting on one of the glass food shelves halfway down in the fresh food section. Parts replaced: the 2 fresh food thermistors, the fresh food damper @ the top left, the quick chill thermistor, the top quick chill damper & the main control board. Freezer temp is set @ 0deg, temp displayed is between 0&1 deg, fresh food temp is set @ 35deg, temp displayed is 30 deg. The refrigerator thermometer is reading 32-33deg. These readings are taken in the morning after the doors being closed all night.
I’ll get my voltmeter & test resistance @ the main control board. Test resistance between the blue wire/pin 3 & the brown wire pin8/J1 & report back. With the power off. Will report temp in freezer as well.