Hello,
I have a side by side GE fridge, mopdel#HSS22IFMBCC. About 1 month ago, it stopped cooling properly. Removing the back panel, the evaporator coils were completely frosted over. A repair technician cut out the defrost heater, saying that it was burn out. He replaced the defrost heater with a new one, and the fridge seemed to work well for about a week (I noticed that he used regular wire nuts to spilce in the new heater, don’t know if that is considered acceptable). Then it stopped cooling again, so I called back the company that repaired it in the first place. The evaporator coils were again completely frosted over, and the defrost heater had again burnt out (the repair tech tested it).
I suppose the replacement heater could have been defective, but assuming that is not the case, could this be a problem with the the defrost limit switch failing closed? It looks like this model of fridge does not have a defrost timer but uses a motherboard to control the defrost cycle, so I am hoping that does not require replacement. What would cause the heater to burn out like that?
He used the wrong heater, he should have never cut and spliced the wires. You must use the correct heater for your model refer or it will burn out the first time the heater comes on. I have been a GE tech for 8 years now and know from experiance you cannot use a heater other than the one for your refer.
Hi,
Thanks much for the fast reply. Using the wrong heater definitely makes sense, and jibes with my observation that this guy didn’t know what he was doing at all (did not have a multimeter, didn’t check anything besides the heater, did not use any silicone tape for the splice, etc). The serial number on my unit is RA22107. Should I assume that this new heater will fail the same way? Do you think I can demand that the repair company purchases the correct part and installs it for free, or should I just cut my losses with them, and do it myself (as I should have done in the first place)?
-Steve
It’s up to you to fight them. The new one wil most definatly fail the same way, You can call GE service, cost will be $100 to fix, You can buy the part yourself WR51x10101 about $35.00, or call them back to put in the correct part. Make sure the box they use says GE Genuine Replacement Part# WR51x10053, WR51x10031 or WR51x10101…3 different part#'s for the same part…Go Figure Order the part here if you want to purchase and do yourself.
Hi, I just received the new defrost heater. Since the bogus repair man cut out the original one, I’ll need to splice the new one in. Any suggestions for how to splice it? Weather-proof wire nuts? Butt splices? Use liquid or regular electrical tape with either of the above? Are there special connectors for inside of a freezer?
I like to use bell connectors, any connector will do. get a tube of silicone (kitchen and bath stuff is fine) and just fill the connector with it after you have crimped it of coarse. All your trying to do is seal the wire from the moisture
this is my first post on this thread… (instead of starting a new one.)
I picked up a replacement defrost heater for my GE TFX22PRDA (side by side frig.)
It’s a dual element heater that is called for as a replacement for the previous single element design. (GE has had numerous recalls over this and other issues… so I’ve discovered.)
The new heater element has 4 connection terminals and a jumper on one side (on the right in the pic.)
The two wires to the old heater run down either side of the coils where they easily connected with the old single element unit.
The new instructions say to splice the existing heater wire that previously connected on the right and bring it to the left side of this new heater. (so both leads are connected on the left side.)
** I ask… why can’t I just use the extra piece of wire provided and make a longer jumper to connect across the terminals on either side of this heater in a “Z” configuration, and connect the wires on the sides (like before) and save myself the trouble of splicing the wire inside the freezer? (and avoid the step of waterproofing the splice?)
Looking at the dual unit, I can’t see how it matters which way the current runs through the elements. The frigin’ thing does have the 4 terminals and obviously isn’t a custom design replacement for my model only.
Anyone seen a few of these?? Is GE tryin’ to trick me into contortions of carrying out this splice job by their odd instructions in some cruel twist of industrial manipulation? (or is it just technical indifference to those of us with the wiring set up for the old single element?)
They have improved the heater from a single coil to a dual coil, over all it’s a better heater. This is what I do, put the jumper on the left side, take the wire that was running down the left side of the evap and bring it over and down the right side of the evap vwith the other wire and hook it up, if it is too short, you need to splice on the wire they gave you in the kit.
I am optimistic that the dual coil should work better and that they have thought out the technical specs to make the change, but the mechanics of the connectors seems less than user friendly. What’s with the wire splicing when the dual coil could have been designed to match the existing wiring? (I continue to speculate this heater must match other applications.)
The instructions cover this idea, but I doubt mine will reach across.
I respect that you may not want to “publicly” condone my idea of crossing over with the jumper (could mislead or confuse others that might read the forum,) but I’m going with it if the “left” wire won’t reach across… unless you have a scary DYI story to set me straight!! heater jumper.jpg (30.1 KB)
I would pull one of the wires up to the top of the evaporator and run it down next to the other one, you will need to splice a wire to this on so it will reach the element.
This new element should last longer, less watt density.
Go ahead and cross over the wire. Not really sure why you find it unacceptable to cut and splice a wire? Just remember there is quite a bit of heat that comes off that heater, so if that wire your going to cross over isn’t far enough away, it’s going to burn when the heater comes on.
After I manually defrost the freezer (again) to finish this job, I’ll see if the wire will go over the top. Seems that would keep the wire away from moisture during regular defrosts.
can’t wait to drop that one into conversation over the holidays!!
You point here about the heat is well taken and probably explains the short jumper design. I am now convinced of the importance of keeping all wires away from the elements. Maybe my idea would work if I kept it safely from the heat, but I now consider I don’t want to end up buying another heater if I screw up.
Cutting and splicing the wire isn’t that big a deal, but I have arthritis and it requires reaching inside this narrow freezer with both hands while twisting sideways… so I just looked at this new replacement element and tried to find an easier way. (then I began to scratch my head at GE and ask if… why wouldn’t they design it to match the existing wires? And if they missed that bet, maybe the instructions were equally offered up with a lack of options.)
Anyway, as soon as the ice cream starts going soft again…
Order the part here if you want to purchase and do yourself.
