[COLOR=red]I am troubleshhoting a 9 year old Kenmore refrigerator (model 596.79279993) with the freezer on the bottom. The freezer will not get below plus 20 degrees F, even when thermostat in both the fridge and freezer are set to maximum cold (7 on the dial). The condenser coils are totally clean, conderser fan is running, evaporator coils are clean (no ice) and the evap fan is running, air flows into fridge from freezer like it is suppose, lights in fridge and freezer shut off when doors are closed (like they should), compressor runs continuously, sounds normal, slight hum can be felt when placing your hand on it. Compressor surface is about 10 degrees above ambient, condenser coils feel like they are at ambient temperature. Auodefrost timer rotates over time, it shuts off the compressor and runs the defrost heater as it should.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=red][/COLOR]
[COLOR=red]I think the uit is either low on refrigerant (takes 4.5 ounces of 134a) or the compressor is going bad. Am I on the right track? I see on your web site a compressor kit Part Number: AP3179962
Manufacturer’s Number: 8201558 (10927206) made by WHIRLPOOL. Does this kit come with installation instructions? How do I know what the high and low side pressures should be when properly charged with the right amount of refrigerant?[/COLOR]
It sounds like a freon leak, which will require a EPA certified technician for repair.
Nat
Thanks for the thoughts. Woudl you attempt to have someone find the leak or send this unit to the landifll and spend $2000 to buy a new one?
I would have a tech check it out and if it is a sealed system problem it’s still cheaper to repair than replace.
Nat
If the tech. can find a minor leak with flourescent die, it’s worth fixing. If a bad compressor plus leaky evaporator, a $600 repair cost would be more than the fridg. is worth.
There is still a probability it may fail again from some other problem; so for many customers, it’s not worth it.
Here is a site with indicators of low freon
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html
Check out the Example pictures at the bottom of the main text.
Try checking the coils after the unit has been running for 2 or 3 hours without a defrost.
I have a 10-year-old bottom freezer that is set to 6 degrees. Recently it has started to temp alarm. The front panel display agrees with my laser temp sensor: 20 degrees.
I also notice significant frost beginning to build up in the freezer compartment.
The refrigerator is running fine.
What is the most likely cause?
Could be a defrost problem if the frost is at the back re: evaporator.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem.
Do not let them de-ice.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer/defrost control board needs replacing.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item in Section ) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item in Section ) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If it is on the food and walls then it could be a door seal problem.
Check your door seals
Make sure they are clean
Get a 2 inch wide piece of paper and place it between the seal and frame.
Then pull it out to check the seal
Work your way around both doors every 8 inches or so.
Thank you for the detailed procedure.
I haven’t had 2 minutes to pull any covers yet, but I have been monitoring the compartment temperatures. Today the freezer is between 10 and 15 depending where I point my laser, even though it is set to 6. There is still frost all over the food. I will do the door seal test this weekend.
But, I wanted to ask …
When the temps begin to rise, I hear some clicking, maybe once or twice per second like a relay is trying to close. Does this suggest anything?
[QUOTE=denman;911203]Could be a defrost problem if the frost is at the back re: evaporator.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem.
Do not let them de-ice.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer/defrost control board needs replacing.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item in Section ) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item in Section ) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If it is on the food and walls then it could be a door seal problem.
Check your door seals
Make sure they are clean
Get a 2 inch wide piece of paper and place it between the seal and frame.
Then pull it out to check the seal
Work your way around both doors every 8 inches or so.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for the detailed procedure.
I haven’t had 2 minutes to pull any covers yet, but I have been monitoring the compartment temperatures. Today the freezer is between 10 and 15 depending where I point my laser, even though it is set to 6. There is still frost all over the food. I will do the door seal test this weekend.
But, I wanted to ask …
When the temps begin to rise, I hear some clicking, maybe once or twice per second like a relay is trying to close. Does this suggest anything?
[QUOTE=denman;911203]Could be a defrost problem if the frost is at the back re: evaporator.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem.
Do not let them de-ice.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer/defrost control board needs replacing.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item in Section ) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item in Section ) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If it is on the food and walls then it could be a door seal problem.
Check your door seals
Make sure they are clean
Get a 2 inch wide piece of paper and place it between the seal and frame.
Then pull it out to check the seal
Work your way around both doors every 8 inches or so.[/QUOTE]
Need a model number.
Depends where the noise is coming from.
If it is at the compressor it could be the compressor trying to start.
Possibley needs a new start device and/or capacitor.
Could also be the compressor is on it’s last legs.
If from inside the unit it could be the damper trying to open/close.
Perhaps it is clogged with frost
Mfi2266aeb
See the attachment for a tech sheet.
It should help you diagnose the problem.
Model number is: MFI2266aeb
I do not have a tech sheet for an aeb unit but the one given should be aclose match to your unit
[QUOTE=denman;911418]I do not have a tech sheet for an aeb unit but the one given should be aclose match to your unit[/QUOTE]
Clearly, I waited too long to look at this issue. Yesterday both compartments were at 52 degrees. That ice cream isn’t going to taste so good.
The compressor was not running and there was a definitely click sound every 30 seconds to a minute. The drip pan under the fan is nearly full. The fan is running. The coils are pretty dirty but they are so far under the unit that I’m not sure how to get to them to clean them.
I unplugged the unit overnight. When I powered it up in the morning, the compressor is now running and the temps are dropping slowly. The compressor is too hot to touch. Is that normal?
This unit is 9 years old. If I can fix it for a couple of hundred in parts, I’d like to keep it.
Yes the compressor can get pretty hot when it is on for a long time.
You may want to unplug the unit and let the compressor cool down some.
The clicking could be a problem with the start device (PTC) or the capacitor.
The compressor keeps trying to start.
The PTC is the more likely of the two.
There is no good way to check either of these so it is a replace them and hope for the best.
The following may not be possible for you so you may have to use a long brush (like a swiffer ) and a vacuum to clean the condenser coils as best you can.
Also be sure to clean the vents (front and back) and the condenser fan blades.
They way I clean mine is to remove the kick plate and the rear cover.
Then I roll it over to an open door and blow it out with my compressor.
A leaf blower also works.
This gets just about all the dust outside.
Note that I am no longer a regular poster on this forum so it will take longer to get a reply from me.
I only reply to posts I have been involved with in the past.
[QUOTE=denman;911705]Yes the compressor can get pretty hot when it is on for a long time.
You may want to unplug the unit and let the compressor cool down some.
The clicking could be a problem with the start device (PTC) or the capacitor.
The compressor keeps trying to start.
The PTC is the more likely of the two.
There is no good way to check either of these so it is a replace them and hope for the best.
[/QUOTE]
I’ve been watching it for two days. There is a loud CLICK. One in maybe 20 attempts, the compressor might start. The other 19 times, it clicks again after 10 seconds. A few minutes later the process starts again.
So, I may need a PTC and I may need a start capacitor? Are they expensive? Should I try one, then the other, or just slam them both in there? What I don’t want to do is spend money on parts that can’t be returned, then find out that I have a bad compressor. Is there any chance that my compressor is under warranty?
Look up your model number on the AppliancePartsPros parts website.
Unless they have changed their policy you can return electronic parts.
I would replace the PTC first as it is the most likely cause.
I looked up the model on the Maytag website.
It says this unit just has a one year warranty (no longer warranty on the sealed system).