Normally the voltage at the defrost heater should be 120VAC.
If you are getting 22 - 27VAC then the problem is within the defrost timer (control board) or the wire harness between them.
For more accurate part numbers and diagrams please check the model number. The one you provided doesn’t come up.
Sorry I put an extra letter in model number correct Model Number should be
ET1MTKXKQ07
I also have become aware that I need to check heater voltage when bimetal thermostat is at freezing temp. It was not, when I got the readings of 22 & 27 VAC
You may want to back up a bit in your troubleshooting.
Why are you looking at the defrost parts in the unit?
When you removed the evaporator cover to check the drain were the coils iced/frosted up to the point where the evaporator fan could not pull air through them?
If they were just lightly frosted then you probably do not have a defrost problem.
Also if you have a defrost problem the compressor will run pretty well continuously as the freezer tries to reach set point but cannot cool down efficiently because air is not being circulated through the coils.
If when you saw the dripping the compressor and fans were off then it may well have been water from the defrost cycle and you just had a frozen or partially clogged drain.
Simon, I have the same problem but with a GE GSS201EMD side by side refrigerator. The bimetal test good and only have about 30 volts AC at the heater terminals. Also, the heater is open/burned.