I have whirlpool top freezer, bottom fridge appliance that is approximately 8 years old. I’m not sure of the model, but can get that info. The fridge compartment is cool but not cold enough and the freezer is not as cold as it has been. I can see the fan turning at the back of the freezer but I can’t hear or feel any cold air being blow out from the back of the freezer. Is there a fan that can go out other than the one I can see?
that is the evaporator fan. The evaporator coils may be iced over, preventing air flow to the refrigerator compartment.
If these coils are iced over, it may need a new defrost thermostat.
Need a model number for any info specific to this unit.
Many units also have a fan by the compressor but this cools the compressor and the condenser coils.
I have the model number ET1CHEXVB01.
There does seem to be some frost build up on the back wall, but I can’t find the place where I can put it into defrost manually to test the timer.
You shouldn’t see much frost on the wall of the freezer, just an even layer across the evaporator coils behind that panel. I should be frost, not ice.
I haven’t removed the back panel to look at the coils yet. I can do that tonight after work.
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool ET1CHEXVB01 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com
See the attachment for the tech sheet. It has how to force a defrost.
As CletusT said the first thing is to check the evaporator coils.
If they are frosted/iced over to the point that the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them then you have a defrost problem.
If Yes, try the following
Do not let them de-ice.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor shut off you are in a defrost cycle. You may have to hold a door interlock closed.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the defrost board needs replacing
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 35 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast.
Thank you for the advice and the tech sheet. Is the back panel hard to remove? I already removed the two screws from the back, but the ice maker looks a little intimidating to remove. Sorry, I’m an amateur. The shelf doesn’t look easy to remove either
Some shelves have a little black plastic clip at the end of the shelf to keep it from sliding out of the holes in the wall of the fridge. Simply remove the little clip, and the shelf then has free play to move from side to side, allowing it to come out of the mounting holes.
The ice makers usually have 2 screws on top mounting into the wall, and one underneath mounting into the wall, then undo the electrical plug and slide it out.
Ice maker is much easier to remove than you think. Just remember where the screws go.
After you get the shelf out and the ice maker out, the back wall just comes forward, unplug any wire harnesses and pull it out.
Removed the back panel and shelf. There was some frost present on the coils but thicker on the top coils. We weren’t sure how to turn the thermostat off other than unplugging it. It never seemed to go into defrost after unplugging it for 30 seconds and plugging the fridge back in. The heater wire never got warm either.
I’m still wondering why I never hear the fan blowing like it does periodically in most freezers. The fan just turns slowly and I can hear the condenser running.
Yes, the fan in the freezer compartment should be blowing when the fridge kicks on. This is what circulates the cold air between compartments.
If the evaporator fan isn’t turning, or turns slow, it will cause the fridge compartment to get warm, or just slightly cold.
I had a service tech come and he said it’s the fan in the freezer compartment that is bad. It’s in slow mode (it constantly turns slowly) and this makes the rest of the components barely work to maintain the freezer. Ordered a new fan and will also replace defrost thermostat since it looked bulgy. Will follow up after the parts are replaced. Thanks
I paid around $40 for a repairman to come to my home and diagnose the fridge and it was well worth the money. He said my fan in the freezer compartment was in slow mode and therefore the entire system was not functioning properly. Replaced the fan (shopped around and got if for less than $40), boyfriend installed it and the fridge is running great! Thanks for all your help here, I wanted to follow up and hopeful help others.
You got a bargain on the service tech call at 40 bucks. Glad to hear it.