Fisher & Paykel F3 error code :0

Dishwasher Repair
1

Hey I have a question about my Fisher & Paykel dishdrawer (DD603SS.) I’ve had it for at least six years and it’s been pretty reliable except for the occasional flood sensor hassle and a recent clogged drain that took me a while to figure out (pumpkin seed.) I’m fairly handy and would like to fix this myself if I can.

So on Thanksgiving while both drawers were running I noticed water in the floor dripping from the front left of the bottom drawer. I opened it up and rearranged stuff thinking something was sticking up too high and when I turned it back on the F3 code popped up after making an electrical arcing sound and kinda smelled. I shut it off at the breaker and cleaned the water including some around the flood sensor, and with it dry turned the breaker back on. The top drawer still works fine but I can’t get the F3 fault to clear. I have been thru the diagnostics menu but I can’t get too far before the fault pops back up. It also displayed a water faucet icon with a line thru it and a reset symbol, which I can’t find any documentation of, but the top drawer works so I assume the water supply isn’t the problem. F3 is supposed to be a water temperature greater than 185 degrees fault. So I took the bottom drawer complete apart. It wasn’t hard but putting it back together sucked. I cleaned all the gunk around the seals and made sure everything was dry. With it all back together it still doesn’t work, and now won’t close, although I think that’s because the plastic rod that parallels the supply/drain hoses and wiring finally completely broke. I’ve done some research online and with the troubleshooting guide and want to know how I can test the heat plate and control module. Can I narrow it down by testing for voltage at the plate or the module? If so how much and at what leads? The guide said to test for resistance at the temperature sensor but I’m not sure where it’s at.

I could swap the parts from the top drawer one a time to see what fixes it but at this point I really don’t want to take the only working one apart. I’ve looked for a repair manual online but can’t find anything. It there’s a relatively easy way to test the element I could throw a new one in for about $70.

Thank you!

2

the temp sensor thermister is located on the heater plate underneath should read above 1k ohm but im doing this off the top of my head from memory, but usually they are open or like really low ohmage if bad in my experience, however if the reading is close post here and i will get the exact value.
much more common is a failed controller not reading the thermistor correctly. I have only had about 6 fail this way that i can recall. My guess is that you must substitute the controller but take accurate ohm readings from all electrical components like soleniods, fan, heater plate,etc since anyone of these being out of spec not only will cause failure but some may damage the controller you just put in.