Brand: Miele Model Number: G5670scvi Main Symptom: wont fill What happens & when: After initial drain goes to error
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
I posted about this before but I still havent resolved the issue and now have a little more information. As stated above my ~12 y/o Miele G5670 SCVI DW will begin the cycle by running the drain pump for a few seconds, and then when it is supposed to move to filling immediately throws an error for fill.
I removed the fill valve, as the most likely causes (from what I’ve read) are the fill valve of the fill control board. The resistance across the valve coil is supposed to be 2100 ohms. I expected to find either 2100 (good coil/valve) or zero. Instead, I got 485 ohms. This is not the failure mode I expected.
To those with more knowledge than me, does the 485 indicated that the coil is likely good and I should focus on the flow control board, or since it is not 2100 ohms that the coil is damaged and should be replaced?
485 Ω does not make me comfortable calling that inlet valve good if the correct spec for the specific valve in your G5670 SCVi is approximately 2.1 kΩ (2100 Ω).
A solenoid coil doesn’t have to fail open (OL/infinite) or dead-short (0 Ω). It can develop shorted turns within the winding. That leaves continuity but substantially reduces resistance. 485 Ω versus 2100 Ω is a major deviation—about 23% of the expected resistance. So I would not jump to the flowmeter/control board based on the fact that the coil isn’t open.
Your symptom also fits an inlet circuit problem very well: drain pump runs normally → machine reaches the fill portion → immediate water-intake fault with no apparent filling. The G5670 manual confirms that “Open water supply/Water intake” faults relate to the inlet system and directs checking the supply, inlet filter, hose, and pressure.
What I’d do next
First, recheck that 485 Ω measurement with the valve electrically disconnected from the dishwasher. Don’t measure it through the harness/control circuitry. Touch your meter leads together first—you should see essentially 0 Ω, then measure directly across the two valve terminals.
If you still get approximately 485 Ω directly across the isolated coil, and you’ve positively identified 2.1 kΩ as the specification for that exact valve, I’d consider the valve bad/out of specification and replace it before buying a flowmeter board.
There’s an even better test if you’re comfortable working around line voltage: determine whether the valve receives its rated voltage during the brief fill attempt. If proper voltage appears at the valve but no water enters, the valve/water supply path is the problem. If no voltage is supplied, then start working backward toward wiring, control, float/pressure inputs, etc. Don’t attempt that test unless you’re comfortable measuring live voltage.
One interesting detail: I found another discussion specifically about this G5670 where 2.1 kΩ is also given as the expected inlet-valve resistance, although that’s community information rather than Miele service documentation.
So between your two choices, I’d lean strongly toward the valve, not the flowmeter board, based on 485 Ω. A flowmeter problem becomes much more compelling if the machine actually lets water enter but then faults because it isn’t detecting that flow.
If you give me the part number printed on the valve, I can check whether 2100 Ω is actually the correct resistance for that particular valve.
Thank you for the detailed, thorough response. Some additional information:
I’ve fully removed the valve and coil from the DW. I’m measuring the resistance at the stake-ons that connect to the plastic connector. The coil itself seems encased in a plastic shell with some type of silicon and the terminals aren’t readily visible.
The 2100 ohms was community sourced. I do not have Miele OEM information.
The spec on the valve is p/n 07934072. It shows out of stock at Miele and at other parts suppliers. I’ve seen 07834078 on eBay with a very similar spec (4.1 l/min, 110v) but diff pressure spec (my valve is 0.1-1.0 bar, the -78 is 0.4-1.0 bar). The fittings look the same.
In addition to confirming the resistance spec of the -72, can you also help me find a suitable cross-reference replacement valve?