I’m hoping someone has the ultimate answer to the FC error code I’m receiving when powering up my oven. I’ve purchased most everything I can think of based on all the threads I have read. Issues started when my baking element wasn’t working, the broiler element was fine. Purchased electronic oven control assembly (clock) AP4088560 since I had this part go out on me before. Did not fix the problem so I purchased the baking element which also didn’t work. Checked the harness to make sure it was seated properly and then purchased relay board AP 4008573. The new board fixed the baking element issue but then a couple of weeks later started getting the FC error on heat up. After this happened a couple of times I checked out everything and noticed that the ribbon on the switch membrane appeared to be cracked, possibly causing the FC error. First I purchased the noise suppressor that was mentioned in a technical bulletin I read, but didn’t make a difference. Purchased the membrane AP4088890 and waited over 4 months for the part to arrive. With much anticipation I installed it and still got the FC error. My wife started packing my bags. Ordered a new harness AP4089703 and didn’t work then ordered the downdraft relay board AP4010046 and still the same problem. I’m running out of options. The only thing I can think of is that the relay board I purchased was just defective. What are your thoughts. HELP!
You could be correct, the replacement PRB could be the malfunction,(AP4008573/12001961).
First thing you really need to do is check and make sure you have a good ground and neutral at the outlet,and the line cord / terminal block of the unit.
(loose wires / connections cause EMI and several fail codes).
You have coverred everything except loose connections.
Were it me,
After checking the wiring, and loose connections.
I would order a new PRB (AP4008573), and another noise supressor(AP4008522),
I would also get some non residue contact cleaner and di electric grease.(Radio Shack, electrical supply dealer, some hardware stores have it as well).
Check and clean all the harnesses at the control with contact cleaner and coat pins and receptacles with grease and insure harnesses are in the receptacles, tight.
Install the new supressor on the J2 harness as close to the control as possible.
Do the same procedure at the relay board, and leave the existing noise suppressor on the J2 harness at the relay board.
Check all of your wires for tight fit on terminals on all components(especially the bake/broil elements).
Please, Let us know how things turn out.
Thanks for your speedy reply Joe. I’ll work on those connections. I actually replaced the power cord last week since I noticed bare wire where the cable penetrated the floor leading to my breaker box in the basement. It is hard wired. The power is all tight and snug, but I’ll go through the cleaning you suggested along with a recheck of all other connections. Also, my new J2 cable came with a suppressor on one end (so it appears) so I’ll try that cable and put the other suppressor I ordered a while back on the other end. THEN - I’ll see about a another replacement relay board.
BTW, the new PRB did not have a pin connection for the J4? (I think thats the number) cable coming from the downdraft board. So, there is no connection from that cable between the downdraft board to the main PRB. I thought I had read somewhere that the mfr changed that so that the fan would run longer or at a lower temp that previous. Just wanted to throw that in to see if you had any comment regarding the PRB connection.
[quote=ArchArrow123;260299]Thanks for your speedy reply Joe. I’ll work on those connections. I actually replaced the power cord last week since I noticed bare wire where the cable penetrated the floor leading to my breaker box in the basement. It is hard wired. The power is all tight and snug, but I’ll go through the cleaning you suggested along with a recheck of all other connections. Also, my new J2 cable came with a suppressor on one end (so it appears) so I’ll try that cable and put the other suppressor I ordered a while back on the other end. THEN - I’ll see about a another replacement relay board.
BTW, the new PRB did not have a pin connection for the J4? (I think thats the number) cable coming from the downdraft board. So, there is no connection from that cable between the downdraft board to the main PRB. I thought I had read somewhere that the mfr changed that so that the fan would run longer or at a lower temp that previous. Just wanted to throw that in to see if you had any comment regarding the PRB connection.[/quote]
It sounds like you’ve got everything under control and ready to go.
I forgot about the supressor, built into the J2 Harness, after all the harnesses I replaced , you’d think I would know it by heart.
Now, the J4 harness connection, I’m going to have our research team investigate.
I don’t remeber if it was eliminated as a redundant system , or if it missing, was an indication of an improper production of the part.
Will get back to you as soon as I get the information.
Hello, your story sound very similar to ours and I am ready to trash this range. We have replaced the same items you have listed and am still having problems. Have had a proffessional repairman come in 3 different times. Apparently he is out of ideas as well. In fact the last time he was here to work on it, he said he didn’t know what else to do for it and he did not charge us for the call. Like yours, our Jenn air is about 10 years old, but we have been having trouble with it for at least 7 of those years. When we purchased our Jenn Air we thought we were buying a top of the line product. I will not be buying anymore Jenn Air products. Good Luck.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;260335]It sounds like you’ve got everything under control and ready to go.
I forgot about the supressor, built into the J2 Harness, after all the harnesses I replaced , you’d think I would know it by heart.
Now, the J4 harness connection, I’m going to have our research team investigate.
I don’t remeber if it was eliminated as a redundant system , or if it missing, was an indication of an improper production of the part.
Will get back to you as soon as I get the information.
[/quote]
ArchArrow,
Could you please get me the serial number off of your range, the parts research crew insists we need a serial number to perform their research.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;262967]ArchArrow,
Could you please get me the serial number off of your range, the parts research crew insists we need a serial number to perform their research.[/quote]
Yep, sorry about the delay. The Serial number is 12243560QY
ArchArrow,
Thanks for the serial number.
I will forward it over to the Research Team, I know they’ll appreciate it.
I did discuss this situation with some other technicians, none of us could remember what the missing J4 connector meant.
But we were able to determine, in your case that you have got to have a J4 connector in order to operate your downdraft fan from the control panel.
We can only guess that you have the wrong part in the correct box .
Based on the information available, you’ll need to get that part ready to ship back to your parts source.
I hope you purchased it from AppliancePartsPros.com .
If so, you could contact our Parts Order Department at 1-(877)-477-7278
And they will be happy to help you.
Good Luck,
[quote=Joe / APP Team;270546]ArchArrow,
Thanks for the serial number.
I will forward it over to the Research Team, I know they’ll appreciate it.
I did discuss this situation with some other technicians, none of us could remember what the missing J4 connector meant.
But we were able to determine, in your case that you have got to have a J4 connector in order to operate your downdraft fan from the control panel.
We can only guess that you have the wrong part in the correct box .
Based on the information available, you’ll need to get that part ready to ship back to your parts source.
I hope you purchased it from AppliancePartsPros.com .
If so, you could contact our Parts Order Department at 1-(877)-477-7278
And they will be happy to help you.
Good Luck,
:)[/quote]
Yes, I already contacted the parts order department at APP earlier today and they were very kind and will be shipping another relay board to me today. When I first started this repair a while back I ordered the clock unit (yet another attempted fix) from another company and they were not willing to take the return. I guess you will see that part on ******** soon! I’ve been very happy with the service APP has provided.
Great,
Glad to hear we’ve got the situation under control.
And that you’re happy with the service we provide.
When you recieve the new part, check and make sure the J4 connector is there, on the new board.
As of yet, I don’t see a need for a new clock,yet. That’s a F- code, or no display or something similar to that.
(just kidding).
I’m thinking you’ll be fine, once we get the correct relay board in the unit.
Good Luck,
Joe,
The new relay board arrived and I put it in this weekend. This board did have the J4 connector and a few other minor differences. Plugged it all in, checked connections and powered it up. No FC code! But all’s not well. First thing I noticed was the fan was running. This is the fan that’s just behind the back right burner. Couldn’t figure how to get it to turn off. Second thing I notice was the oven light was on. I hit the oven light button and it didn’t turn off. The button made the audible ‘ding’ sound but didn’t turn the light off. Then I hit the fan button on the control board and it didn’t work and also didn’t make the audible ‘ding’. The oven worked fine over the weekend. Because I couldn’t get the fan to turn off I just unplugged it since I don’t believe with the original relay panel that we had for over 15 yrs that the fan ever ran when the oven was turned off. Used the oven several times this weekend and my wife said that I might not get kicked out of the house after all. Then yesterday morning she left me an email saying that the alarm on the oven started going off again. She hit the ‘clear’ button and it stopped. It didn’t indicate FC. She had used the oven in the morning and it worked fine. So for right now I would like to know if there’s a way to fix the fan and light issue and we’ll see if the oven continues to work.
[quote=ArchArrow123;274831]Joe,
The new relay board arrived and I put it in this weekend. This board did have the J4 connector and a few other minor differences. Plugged it all in, checked connections and powered it up. No FC code! But all’s not well. First thing I noticed was the fan was running. This is the fan that’s just behind the back right burner. Couldn’t figure how to get it to turn off. Second thing I notice was the oven light was on. I hit the oven light button and it didn’t turn off. The button made the audible ‘ding’ sound but didn’t turn the light off. Then I hit the fan button on the control board and it didn’t work and also didn’t make the audible ‘ding’. The oven worked fine over the weekend. Because I couldn’t get the fan to turn off I just unplugged it since I don’t believe with the original relay panel that we had for over 15 yrs that the fan ever ran when the oven was turned off. Used the oven several times this weekend and my wife said that I might not get kicked out of the house after all. Then yesterday morning she left me an email saying that the alarm on the oven started going off again. She hit the ‘clear’ button and it stopped. It didn’t indicate FC. She had used the oven in the morning and it worked fine. So for right now I would like to know if there’s a way to fix the fan and light issue and we’ll see if the oven continues to work.[/quote]
Arch,
This is crazy,
But at least we don’t have a “FC” code (yet).
I don’t know where to start .
I’m thinking all kinds of possibilities,
Lets start simple,
When you pressed the fan button on the control panel, did you notice the downdraft fan motor come on ? or go off when you pressed it again ? it should have.
That’s what the J4 connector does, feed from the input (button) goes to the PRB, from the PRB to the D/D relay board(through the J4 harness) to the D/D motor.
It has nothing to do with the cooling fan.
The Cooling fan is controlled through the resistance of the oven temp. sensor.
When the sensor is reading 1700 ohms(or more) for an extended period, the board automatically closes the circuit to the cooling fan and turns it on. and it should run, until the resistance drops below 1600 ohms,even if the oven is off, and you remove the cooked article.
The oven light is control by the switch mounted on the front of the oven in the S/C door latch assembly.
When the switch is open(when the door is closed)and closes when the door is openned and the PRB closes the oven light relay and the bulb glows.
I’m wanderring if :
You’ve got a stuck or bad oven light switch or wire.
Since both the cooling fan and the oven light wires are brown, do you have them on the wrong PRB terminals ?
I don’t think I sent you a copy of the Service Manual or if you had one, but here is a copy for reference, so you can varify wiring locations and operation of the unit and components.
Let me know what you find,
l
Exact Same Issues With Same Stove. I’ve Replaced Clock Control…membrane Switch…and Both Relays In Back…$700 Worth Of Fun With No Success.
Has Anyone Solved The Mystery? What’s The Answer?
[quote=GARY-L;324174]Exact Same Issues With Same Stove. I’ve Replaced Clock Control…membrane Switch…and Both Relays In Back…$700 Worth Of Fun With No Success.
Has Anyone Solved The Mystery? What’s The Answer?[/quote]
Gary,
Did you replace the J2 harness and install additional Ferrite bead(s) on the harness at the new relay board,
Like Archarrow, in the previous posts ?
Did you clean up he board connections with contact cleaner or alcohol and use dielectric grease on the connections ?
Also check all the connections at both ends for loose connections, especially at the terminal block(where the power cord or conduit wires are attached ?
Good Luck,
Joe…
Thank You.
Did Archarrow123 Find Success In His Repair Efforts? It Seems That Many Have The Exact Same Issues With This Stove…yet The Threads End Prior To Describing Any Successful Fixes…
Gary
[quote=GARY-L;326584]Joe…
Thank You.
Did Archarrow123 Find Success In His Repair Efforts? It Seems That Many Have The Exact Same Issues With This Stove…yet The Threads End Prior To Describing Any Successful Fixes…
Gary[/quote]
Gary,
I honestly don’t recall, if he responded or not.
But, having worked on that unit from it’s inception, The parts and repairs I reccomended were factory service procedures, provided we have proper voltage supply, and proper and tight connections to the terminal block.
After several months of similar code problems, it was discoverred that there was a high possibility of EMI or RF interference on the system, and the ferrite beads (filters) solved the issue.
The procedure I reccomended to you, and Archarrow, was the same procedure I used in the field as a repair technician.
I’m pretty sure , if you do the cleaning and the dielectric grease, install the harness and the ferrite beads on the harnesses at the terminal block, you’ll be OK.
Thanks,
Thanks Joe…
I Will Order Parts And Let You Know.
Gary
[quote=GARY-L;326649]Thanks Joe…
I Will Order Parts And Let You Know.
Gary[/quote]
Gary,
Great,
Good deal, I’ll keep an eye out for your update,
We’d really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Yo Joe…
Sorry To Be Slow With The Reply, But J2 Harness Was On Back Order.
I Did Finally Receive J2, And I Installed With Beads…cleaned And Inspected All Connections…still No Go!
After All The Parts, Labor, And Frustration…decided To Cut My Losses And Improvise. I Wired Around The Relay Boards And Cut Switches In…one Each For The Oven Light And Oven Cooling Fan, As They Had Stayed On Continuosly. I Also Wired From The Power Block Through A 2-Speed Switch To Get The Downdraft Fan To Work. Rube-goldbergish, But Works, And The Switches Are Hidden Inside A Cupboard Door On The Island.
Thank You For All Your Time And Advice. I Do Honestly Feel There Is A Design Flaw In These Units As There Are Too Many With The Exact Symptoms. Reminds Me Of My Mitsubishi 52" Dlp ($3600)…got 5 Yrs Out Of It By Babying It Until A Power Spike Finished It Off…the Permanent “mitsubishi Fast Blinking Green Light Of Death”. Google It…good Read.
Thanks
Gary
[quote=GARY-L;339476]Yo Joe…
Sorry To Be Slow With The Reply, But J2 Harness Was On Back Order.
I Did Finally Receive J2, And I Installed With Beads…cleaned And Inspected All Connections…still No Go!
After All The Parts, Labor, And Frustration…decided To Cut My Losses And Improvise. I Wired Around The Relay Boards And Cut Switches In…one Each For The Oven Light And Oven Cooling Fan, As They Had Stayed On Continuosly. I Also Wired From The Power Block Through A 2-Speed Switch To Get The Downdraft Fan To Work. Rube-goldbergish, But Works, And The Switches Are Hidden Inside A Cupboard Door On The Island.
Thank You For All Your Time And Advice. I Do Honestly Feel There Is A Design Flaw In These Units As There Are Too Many With The Exact Symptoms. Reminds Me Of My Mitsubishi 52" Dlp ($3600)…got 5 Yrs Out Of It By Babying It Until A Power Spike Finished It Off…the Permanent “mitsubishi Fast Blinking Green Light Of Death”. Google It…good Read.
Thanks
Gary[/quote]
Gary,
I’m glad you were able to improvise and adapt things to work.
Just sorry it took you so much extra effort.
I didn’t have that much of a problem, and that was a very popular product, where I worked.
As for the “Green light of Death”, I’ve read that article, very interesting and a good read. I decided to get my 15 year old TV repaired, instead of buying new.
Thanks Again,
Good Luck,