Brand: Kitchenaid Model Number: KRFF305EBS02 Main Symptom: Freezer working properly, fridge portion at room temp What happens & when: Evap fan is not moving at all, even after replacement. Bench tested the replacement for proper function. Tested the reinstall by letting the freezer go all the way down to 0°F, still nothing. Door contacts taped closed, tested line side supply voltage to the fan at 120 VAC on the white leg, 21 VAC on the blue leg, 61 VAC between legs before even plugging in load side evap fan. These readings are kind of weird to me but I’m not familiar with control board wiring and expected values to the field. Is this indicative of a bad control board? I cannot get this thing to run diagnostics because I’m getting conflicting info from the internet on how to get it into that mode. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Error Code (if any):
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Hello Jordan12, would it be possible to provide a picture of the fan in question? Based on the wiring diagram, the only fan motor I find with a white wire going to it would be the condenser fan motor in the compressor section.
Sure. I’m sorry, I should have provided at first. The fan OEM is Panasonic FDQR102M3L. I replaced with W11024089. It’s mounted dead center, directly above the evaporator coils in the freezer behind the access plate. I should also note that because my tester leads are too thick, I cannibalized the harness end of the old Panasonic fan and stripped the ends to get readings - thus the wire colors you’re seeing in the original post
From what I see on the original harness that the fan would have attached to, there should be a voltage supply wire colored black with a yellow stripe, and a neutral wire colored white with a black stripe. If there was voltage coming up the white wire with black stripe when the fan was unplugged and the meter is testing from the wire to a ground wire, it would indicate there is voltage being pushed through the neutral wire from the main control when there should not be. Usually, this would indicate an issue with the main control if the damper and the defrost heater are not in operation. I have attached the tech sheet for reference.
I really do appreciate your help so far. You’ve been the most informative by far. I would agree with you also. I’m an electrician, so seeing voltage on the neutral side under no load , or reading these values between wires suggests an open neutral to me. Was more or less looking to confirm that I’m not completely off base (refrigerator power, especially post control board, is not my forte). With that being said, is this most likely a control board issue? Are there multiple control boards? I just want to know what part I should be ordering. Thank you again for your help!
ETA: would there be a possible way to do a diagnostic that you can recommend? Every way I’ve read how to do it doesn’t work at all.
If you unplug the refrigerator power cord and test the outlet from the neutral port to the ground port, is there a voltage reading there? This will identify if there is a voltage crossover in the main control or if there might be something going on with the power supply. From what I have seen in the field, either voltage is coming up the neutral side of the power supply, or the most likely issue would be the main control if the power supply is good. Here is a link to the main control. Whirlpool WPW10317076 Refrigerator Electronic Control Board | Genuine OEM Part
No voltage at source. Just continuity, as expected. Again, thank you for helping me troubleshoot. So, this board (going to have to yank this monster out lol) is the likely culprit, I assume. Is there any way, besides physical damage obvious to the naked eye, that I could test it before full replacement? It seems more and more likely, but i just want to guarantee I’ve covered all bases. Would hate to order it, install it and find out it was the other board or something could’ve been mitigated.
