Ok so I have 220 from the wall to the dryer L1 to L2 has 220 L1 to center has 110 L2 to center has 110. I have checked all components thermal fuse, Hi limit thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Thermal cut off, Heating element, and the Centrifugal Switch. All have Continuity the only thing that doesn’t have power is the red wire coming from the timer to the thermostats, would this cause my element not to heat up also checked them all when the dryer was on all have 110 except for the element only the wire from the Centrifugal switch has 110 I get nothing out of the other that runs through the thermostats and fuse to the Element. The black wire coming from L1 to the timer has 110. Tested all on timed high heat setting. Please help its been stumping me all week.
Here are your parts
Parts for Estate EED4400WQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com
See the attachment for the tech sheet.
[COLOR=“Blue”]All have Continuity the only thing that doesn’t have power is the red wire coming from the timer to the thermostats, would this cause my element not to heat up[/COLOR]
Yes.
When in high heat A to B on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Not sure why you say Continuity and then power as Continuity is a resistance measurement and power is a voltage measurement. i trust this is just terminology.
[COLOR=“Blue”]
also checked them all when the dryer was[/COLOR][COLOR=“Red”] on all have 110 except for the element only the wire from the Centrifugal switch has 110[/COLOR] [COLOR=“Blue”]I get nothing out of the other that runs through the thermostats and fuse to the Element. [/COLOR]
Sorry you lost me.
The way I interpret it is that everything has 110 volts.
Also the last part where you get nothing seems to contradict the above.
[COLOR=“Blue”]Tested all on timed high heat setting. Please help its been stumping me all week.[/COLOR]
Using Neutral/ground as a reference when checking a heater circuit can be confusing it is not part of the heater circuit. Also you do not know if you are measuring L1 or L2 voltage.
If A to B on the timer is ohms when in a heat mode you should also see ) ohms at all thermostats and one side of the heater. Also 8 to 12 ohms on the other side of the heater. This is using C or black (L1) as the reference.
If the above is true then I would say that either the centrifugal heater switch contacts on the motor are not closing or there is a bad wire/connection from the heater through the switch to L2.
Another symptom of this is that the timer will not advance in timed dry when the unit is running re: the timer motor is 220 volts.
L1 , timer motor , T/F timer contacts , 1M/2M centrifugal switch , L2
EED4400.pdf (549.3 KB)